Climb aboard the carriage and step back in time
Luxury and elegance on the Orient Express
the ultimate treat for a special birthday or anniversary.
The scene: Santa Lucia station, Venice on a warm morning, gondoliers singing. Here, I caught my first sight of the Orient Express.
The name alone evokes a more romantic age, when the act of travel was as much a part of the holiday experience as your destination.
Stretching along the platform, its 14 blue-and-white carriages glistened in the sun, outshone only by the immaculate, white-liveried train staff waiting en masse to greet us.
Our steward, a young Frenchman called David, guided us aboard and into our cabin.
Designed and built in the 1920s, the carriages boast art deco style.
It’s not uncommon for passengers to go the whole hog and dress up in period costume, something my travelling companion was adamant we would not be trying!
Soon we were off, the watery streets of Venice disappearing as we crossed the lagoon and headed across the north of Italy towards Austria. Castles, vineyards, mountain peaks – you name it, it was all there as we looked on from the comfort of our cabin with glasses of Prosecco in hand.
Soon it was time to stroll along to the dining carriage to partake in the first of many culinary extravaganzas.
The quality the chefs produce in their small galleys is astounding – on a par with anything in a Michelin-starred restaurant.
After lunch, it was time to head back to our cabin to take in more scenery as we headed through the Brenner Pass into Austria.
The train seemed to exude good feeling, which was reciprocated along the route as passers-by waved to us.
Suitably dressed for dinner, we sat down to another mouth-watering offering as the train thundered into Switzerland.
To views of the sun setting over Lake Zurich, we ate our veal in the opulence of the Oriental dining carriage.
After, ahem, several nightcaps in the new ‘3674’ lounge bar, serenaded by a pianist in a sparkly tuxedo, it was time to head back to our cabin.
David had not been idle while we were away, our cabin transformed into a sleeping compartment with luxury-style bunks – and I
was relegated to the top one. We woke at 7am on the outskirts of Paris to be served a continental breakfast along with gallons of piping-hot coffee.
After a brief stop at Paris-Est station it was time to continue towards the coast, across the flatlands of the Somme.
During this time we were again summoned to the dining car to experience our last on-board meal – a brunch of salmon and scrambled eggs followed by half a lobster proving the perfect parting note to leave us satisfied.
Disembarking at Calais, it was time to board a luxury coach for the short hop under the Channel on Le Shuttle.
Once in England, we were soon heading towards Folkestone station and our next date with a vintage train.
The British Pullman hails from the same era as the Orient Express and the décor and service are no less salubrious. We enjoyed afternoon tea with a glass of sparkling wine as we headed across Kent towards London.
As the train pulled into London Victoria, it was time to reflect on a truly epic journey. We had crossed five countries, the Alps and the Channel in less than 30 hours – all the while sitting in the lap of luxury.
We had shared stories and anecdotes over cocktails with a great mix of people from all walks of life, all the while feeling as elegant as a character in an Agatha Christie novel.
The experience lived up to the hype and then some.
The wonderful train couldn’t fail to delight, but the staff make it what it is.
Offering superlative levels of service with a good dollop of humour and personality is no easy task, but they seem naturals in making you feel part of the Orient Express and its history.
If you have the time I recommend starting your trip with a few days in the Belmond Cipriani in Venice.
Renowned as one of the top hotels in the world, it is positioned off the Grand Canal just opposite St Mark’s Square.
You don’t need to leave the hotel to experience the best of Venetian cuisine, as the Michelin-starred Restaurant Oro serves up a combination of classic Italian with a local twist (the pan-fried shrimp head risotto is a must). Enjoy a day in the Casanova Spa if you want to have a breather from bustling Venetian streets.
All in all, just perfection!