The Sunday Post (Dundee)

clean Timetowipe­theslate

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Consumers are becoming increasing­ly sophistica­ted with their choice of cosmetics. And, because of that wisdom, interest in the science of skincare is booming. The latest products to go under the beauty microscope are cleansers. Chances are, every morning and night you grab a liquid cleanser to wash away the day – and, if you’re a skincare pro, you’ll be following the 60-second rule, cleaning your face for a full minute. After all, is there anything more satisfying than creating a nice foam to scrub your face? It really feels like you’re getting squeaky clean in the suds.

Well, we have bad news – foaming cleansers might not be the best choice for your skin. Beauty experts believe the growing trend for skincare balms could be more beneficial in cold, drying weather, and while you might not need to do away with the fun foam altogether, there are many benefits to a balm.

Here, we discover the best products for all skin types.

What’s the difference between foaming and non-foaming cleansers?

The clue is really in the name. A foaming cleanser is one you rub between your hands to create a foam, something the non-foaming version can’t do. The latter category includes jellies and balms.

“Cleansing balms have a mess-free texture and can be much more convenient when applying, they are solid at room temperatur­e but become softer when massaged into the skin and should be removed using a warm facecloth,” says Dr Preema Vig, medical director of the Dr Preema London Clinic.

Cleansing foams “normally have a lighter consistenc­y”, she says, while balms “are a thicker, buttery consistenc­y”.

Are non-foaming cleansers better?

“I believe a cleansing balm is more effective than a foam at cleaning skin and removing make up,” says Anton Alexandrof­f, consultant dermatolog­ist at BMI The Manor Hospital in Bedford.

“A balm is more moisturisi­ng and is suitable for all skin types, especially dry skin.

“I would advise people with dry skin to avoid foam, because of its tendency to dry the skin further.”

Dr Amber Woodcock, medical director at Cosmetics Doctor in Norwich, agrees with Alexandrof­f’s sentiment, saying: “Typically, a balm will feel more hydrating and helps those with normal or dry skin.”

She also recommends those who wear a lot of make-up to give balms a go, as it’s a gentle way to melt all traces off your skin.

So are foams all bad?

Don’t worry – you don’t have to cut foaming cleansers out of your life completely.

Historical­ly, foaming cleansers contained ingredient­s such as sodium lauryl sulphate (SLS) which, Woodcock says, “can be drying or irritating to some skin types, and therefore people with sensitive skin tended to avoid foaming cleansers”.

However, now you can find products without SLS.

“Check instead that the label mentions ‘hydrating ingredient­s’ rather than SLS,” she adds.

“Those with acne, congestion or oiliness may prefer a foaming cleanser.”

Woodcock also advises those with acne-prone skin should “be careful that the oils in the balm are not pore blocking”.

At the end of the day, Abi Cleeve, founder of skinsense By Abi Cleeve, says: “It’s important to consider that simplifyin­g product choices into ‘good’ or ‘bad’ can lead us to limit options unnecessar­ily.”

Should you switch up your routine, depending on the time of day?

If you’re going to focus on one time of day to cleanse, Cleeve suggests the evening, because there’s, “more work to do to ensure the skin’s surface is clear of sun protection (which should be used daily, yearround), make-up and environmen­tal and atmospheri­c aggressors, particular­ly for city dwellers”.

The evening skin cleanse prepares for the best possible absorption of overnight skincare products, where the skin is at its optimum to receive and have them work most effectivel­y, she says.

For an evening wash, Cleeve notes: “A balm can be massaged for a longer, deeper, more relaxing cleansing ritual, particular­ly when taken off with a hot cloth, for added gentle exfoliatio­n.”

She also says the morning cleanse can be optional, depending on skin type: “A splash of water for those keeping things minimal, or a small amount of cleanser for those who may have used a few steps in their product choices the night before.”

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