Scotland Peter Irvine’s the best
Coastal villages This week we spotlight four quiet little places that will capture your heart. Time to get exploring!
Port Charlotte, Islay
A township on the Rhinns of Islay, the western peninsula. By A846 from the ports, Askaig and Ellen, via Bridgend, then A847. Rows of whitewashed, well-kept cottages along and back from shoreline. Great wee museum and the estimable Port Charlotte Hotel, with bar and dining room. Town beach and the one between Port Charlotte and Bruichladdich (the war memorial nearby). Quiet and charming, not merely quaint. The road onwards (six miles) to Portnahaven, (even cuter) far west.
Corrie, Arran
The bonniest bit of Arran (apart from Kildonan and the glens and the rest), happily reached by bike from Brodick (six miles). Many walks from here, including Goat Fell, but nice just to sit or potter on the foreshore.
Animal sculptures and even the boats in the slips of harbours are aesthetic.
Cromarty, near Inverness
At end of road across Black Isle from Inverness (27 miles NE); does take longer than you think (well, 30 minutes). Times-gone-by atmos without being twee. Delights include: the East Kirk, with countryside through the windows behind the altar; Hugh (the geologist) Miller’s cottage/ Courthouse museum; Cromarty Bakery; a perfect wee restaurant, Sutor Creek; the shore and cliff walk.
Culross, near Dunfermline
By A994 from Dunfermline or junction 1 of M90 just over Queensferry Crossing (nine miles). Old centre conserved and restored by NTS. More historical than quaint; a community of careful custodians lives in the white and yellow red-pantiled houses. Footsteps echo in the cobbled wynds and those of the Outlander film crews. Interesting back gardens; lovely church at top of hill. Bessie’s café, by the Palace is way better than many by the NTS.
Peter Irvine is the author of the essential travel guide Scotland the Best published by Collins, priced £15.99