The Sunday Post (Inverness)

Scotland the best

Famous battlegrou­nds History comes alive as we step into the past and learn about the wars that shaped the nation

- Peter Irvine is the author of the essential travel guide Scotland the Best published by Collins, priced £15.99 Peter Irvine’s

Culloden

Signed from A9 and A96 into Inverness and about five miles from town. This state-of-the-art visitor centre with “voices of history” puts you in the picture. There’s a 10-minute rooftop perspectiv­e or a 40-minute through-the-battlefiel­d walk. Positions of the clans and the troops marked out across the moor; flags enable you to get a real sense of scale. If you go in spring, you see how wet and miserable the moor can be (the battle took place on April 16, 1746). No matter how many other folk are there wandering down the lines, a visit to this most infamous of battlefiel­ds can still leave a pain in the heart.

Scapa Flow

Scapa Flow, surrounded by various of the southern Orkney islands, is one of the most sheltered anchorages in Europe. Hence the huge presence in Orkney of ships and personnel during both wars. The Germans scuttled 52 of their warships here in 1919 and many still lie in the bay. The Royal Oak was torpedoed in 1939 with the loss of 833 men. Much still remains of the war years: the rusting hulks, the shore fortificat­ions, the Churchill Barriers and the ghosts of a long-gone army at Scapa and Lyness on Hoy. Evocative visitor centre, museum and naval cemetery at Lyness.

Killiecran­kie

The first battle of the Jacobite Risings where, in July 1689, the Highlander­s lost their leader Viscount (aka Bonnie) Dundee, but won the battle, using the narrow Pass of Killiecran­kie. One escaping soldier made a famous leap. Well-depicted scenario in visitor centre; short walk to “The Leap”. Battle viewpoint and cairn is further along the road to Blair Atholl, turning right and doubling back (two miles from visitor centre). You get the lie of the land from here. Many good walks and the lovely Killiecran­kie Hotel for rest, refreshmen­ts and excellent food.

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 ?? ?? ● Orkney’s Churchill Barrier No 3
● Orkney’s Churchill Barrier No 3

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