It’s time to Chill in Seville
From tempting tapas to fiery flamenco in Spanish delight
THE pool’s tiny — just big enough for a cooling splash — but my goodness, what a view.
From the terrace of the Corral del Rey, I can see for miles across the historic centre of Seville.
Not far away, the bell-tower of the city’s cathedral rises above a sea of flat roofs that bristle with TV aerials, satellite dishes and clothes lines.
The streets of the old town are so narrow there’s no room for gardens, so people use the roof as a place to hang washing and relax on hot summer evenings.
And the swifts that swoop shrieking overhead as I sip my chilled sherry and watch the sun set are a reminder that this is just such an evening.
So it’s definitely a good idea to dine outdoors.
Seville’s tapas bars are great for light snacking or for pigging out. This is flexible eating at its best — order a few dishes to start, then just go on ordering as the fancy takes you. Just a couple of minutes walk from the Corral del Rey, narrow calle Argote de Molina is one solid stretch of café tables.
I alighted at Antiguedades (Argote de Molina 40), where I sampled grilled camembert served in raspberry sauce (I know it sounds weird, but it’s delicious) alcachofas a la plancha (grilled artichokes), deep-fried potato-wrapped prawns and fried mushrooms. The bill, including a glass of wine, water and a salad, came to less than £20.
Fortified by a great night’s sleep (the Corral del Rey’s rooms are delightfully cool, as well as being full of lovely antiques and works of art), I set out to explore.
Seville packs a lot into its historic centre. All the main sites are within easy walking distance of each other, but start early (to enjoy the cool of the morning) and take your time.
Head straight for the huge
cathedral and dare the breathtaking ascent to the viewing balcony at the top of its Giralda bell-tower. I expected steps, but instead there’s a zig-zag series of ramps. They were built, I’m told, so that Spanish kings could ride all the way up on horseback, instead of footslogging like the poor commoners.
From here, there’s a stunning view of old and new Seville and the great Guadalquivir river as it winds its way off towards the Atlantic.
Back at street level, your next stop has to be the amazing Reales Alcazares.
This complex of palaces, gardens and serene courtyards filled with fountains and greenery is a legacy of the Moorish caliphs who ruled here for five centuries. Knowing a good thing when they saw it, the Spanish kings who ousted them from Seville in 1248 kept the palace and its gardens for themselves.
There’s so much to see here, but it’s vital to pace yourself. So pause for lunch in the cool of the Cerveceria Giralda where — in an ancient building that was once a Moorish bath-house — you can glug a beer or sip a glass of chilled wine and savour yet more tapas.
Seville has so many varieties of these snacks that you could stay here for months before eating the same thing twice.
Next, head for the river. There are lots of chaps eagerly touting the delights of various river cruises, but instead of letting them herd me on to one of their cattle-boats I chose an eco-friendly Guadalquivir river trip on a sweet little electric boat with Guadaluxe (guadaluxe. com, € 15). A glass of cava added to the experience as we glided along.
La Bodega, on Plaza de Alfalfa, was recommended by the super-helpful people at the Corral del Rey as a truly authentic spot for dinner. It was full of locals, all talking at the tops of their voices. Ordering involved a lot of pointing at the menu, then keeping an eye on the bar for my order to be ready.
Opposite, Café Alfalfa looked like a great place to meet the locals for a late night drink.
A very mixed, amiable crowd of regulars packed this funky bar, spilling on to the street for a breath of air (or, more likely, a ciggie).
With enormous balloon glasses of sweet Soberano brandy for £1.50, it’s my Seville top tip for a nightcap. Or two. Guys, I’ll be back.
Sunday is market day in Seville, and I couldn’t resist going back to Plaza de Alfalfa for the pet market. Chicks, parakeets, rabbits and puppies send out a “choose me” vibe. The snakes, toads and lizards are easier to resist.
When the narrow streets of the old quarter start to feel a bit cramped, head for the Parque de Maria Lusia, where you can splash around on the boating canals of the Plaza de Espana.
Seville’s nightlife blends old and new. Fatboy Slim was in the house for the Territorio Sevilla music festival, but I opted for traditional entertainment at the Museo de Baile Flamenco (sevillainside.com, € 25).
Moody guitarists and sultry, stamping temptresses? Yes, this is my kinda town!