Harrogate’s genteel touch
The delightful Yorkshire spa town is sure to put a spring in your step
THERE are some places that conjure up a certain image.
In Harrogate’s case, it’s one of genteel elegance.
It’s a spa town from way back, of course, but we’ve come for a look-see at whether perception actually is reality.
The perfect place to start is the Royal Pump Room Museum, a can’t-miss circular building, distinctive for both its shape and the unmistakable whiff of sulphur as we approach.
A button outside operates a tap dispensing said sulphurous water with a very wise warning sign it’s not for drinking.
Just the smell, though, would surely put anyone off.
Inside, we find displays showing why visitors came from all over to what was known as the Queen of Inland Spas.
You can still see the sulphur wells and we find out about the history of Harrogate’s Stray, a 200-acre parkland, and the shops and hotels that sprung up to cater for the visitors.
Just a couple of minutes along the road is the equally-grand Turkish Baths, the most historically complete in the country.
The Baths themselves look grand, ornate and timeless and a section of the building is now a fancy Chinese restaurant.
Well-known, too, in a different way, is the Blues Bar at the top of Montpellier Hill.
We find it a great place for a drink and a listen to some music in one of the city’s most famous venues.
And when it comes to shopping, Harrogate has really nailed it.
We’ve been told the Montpellier Quarter is the place to head, and we’re not disappointed.
There are more than 80 little shops and pavement cafes and bars in the zigzag of cobbled streets.
Well-known names jostle with little independents and chic boutiques, plus the antique shops and galleries that draw art lovers and collectors from miles around.
On the subject of miles around, we find the miles around here are packed with things to see and do.
But first, after a leisurely day wandering around, its back to the base we’ve picked for our break. It’s a little way north, in Cropton, somewhere we’ve been before and had such happy memories it lured us back.
The New Inn is the village pub with rooms.
New? It’s 200 years old!
Cosy, comfortable and with the warmest of welcomes, it’s easy to see why it’s survived the passage of time. The food is hearty and wholesome and there’s the added appeal of it having its own brewery just out
the back.
Now called the Great Yorkshire Brewery, it used to be just Cropton Brewery but changed its name because no one knew where Cropton was. Trust me, it’s worth finding out.
Next day we strike out, first to Fountains Abbey and Studley Royal Water Garden.
Looked after by the National Trust, it’s a UNESCO World Heritage site and we soon see why.
Everything about the place is massive and so impressive. Even if you are not a fan of historic ruins, the scale and magnificence of the 12th Century abbey takes the breath away.
We see how it’s built over, not just beside, the River
Skell. The construction is a marvel.
So, too, are the 18th Century water gardens, one of the most spectacular in the country. There’s loads of space in the grounds for kids to run around, but, there are quite a few hills to navigate.
It passes a good few hours but there is one other big local attraction we want to check out.
It’s Mother Shipton’s Cave, the oldest entrance-charging tourist attraction in England, dating way back to 1630.
The walk along the river bank to the cave is as much part of the appeal with row boats on the water in front of some very classy houses.
We can’t help but look at the smart gardens and patios facing on to the wide waterfalls with a bit of envy.
The cave inhabited by the famous prophetess is pretty small and what’s actually of more interest is the Petrifying Well, the water has flowed slowly here for centuries.
Fed from a giant underground lake the mineral deposits literally petrify objects in comes into contact with and we see everything from little teddies to tennis rackets dangling above, frozen in time.
It’s just a 10-minute hop back into Harrogate for another pleasant afternoon wandering round the – yes, very genteel – valley gardens.