LittLe wonder
Robin McKelvie visits tiny principality of Liechtenstein.
IDiscovering Liechtenstein, a hidden gem in the corner of Europe
T’S not often as a travel writer that I recommend you should visit a destination just because it is there.
Liechtenstein is a glorious exception. This tiny country – technically a principality – is a complete anomaly, a delightfully quirky corner of Europe that is great fun to visit. Its very existence and way of life is never less than fascinating.
Take its size. I found it hard to believe Liechtenstein is only 62 square miles, but on arrival I began to believe it.
And it is the only country to lie entirely within the Alps.
The stats keep coming. Along with Uzbekistan, it’s also one of only two doubly landlocked countries in the world – not only is it landlocked, but the countries that surround it are also landlocked.
Its bijou size does not hold it back, though. There may be only 40,000 inhabitants, but Liechtenstein is said to be the richest country in the world per head of population.
This independent state lies in a deeply dramatic part of Europe, sandwiched between Switzerland and Austria.
It also lies just inland from mighty Lake Constance, making it a great base for exploring that fascinating corner of Europe.
What Liechtenstein lacks in size and population it more than makes up for in scenic punch. It’s a little microcosm of the Alps.
The suitably compact capital of Vaduz lies in a green bowl surrounded by epic mountain peaks that dwarf any mountain in Scotland.
Liechtenstein boasts a rich history to back up its natural appeal. The Romans once held sway here, long before it became the Imperial Principality of Liechtenstein in 1719, leading to full autonomy in 1806.
I gaze upwards and see the dramatic base of the monarchy, the 12th Century Vaduz Castle. Remarkably it’s still the home of the man in charge of Liechtenstein, who lives like a prince overlooking his lands.
I take a walking tour of the city centre, picking up a sweep of maps and leaflets from the helpful tourist office. I kick off on the
Rathausplatz, home to the striking, historic Town Hall (Rathaus).
Another architectural highlight is the grand Cathedral of St Florin, which was built in 1873.
I didn’t miss the chance to visit the unusual Postal Museum and send a postcard with a unique stamp back home.
The best way to get a feel for the tiny size of the capital and country is aboard the City Train.
These wee trains zip you round the main sights of the city, which only takes 35 minutes.
That is not to say there is nothing to see in Liechtenstein.
I admire the trim, clean city streets as we cruise around the centre, before pushing out into the greener suburbs and come to the stadium, where the national team play their matches.
On the way back to the centre we ease by wee vineyards, and I mean wee as they look more the size of gardens.
On my second day in Liechtenstein I decide to push beyond Vaduz and discover its mountains.
En route I stop off at the Walser Museum in Triesenberg to learn about the principality’s rich folklore. I spend time with Sabrina Vogt, a storyteller who wows my kids and I with tales of dragons, kings and princesses.
I then discover a totally different Liechtenstein that lies through a vault of massive road tunnels.
Gone are the urban trappings of Vaduz and in their place a blanket of emerald green hillside.
The chairlifts hint at the area’s role as an unlikely winter sports playground. I settle for a hike then dinner washed
down with a glass of superb Liechtenstein pinot noir.
Driving back down, it’s impossible not to be impressed with the epic views and appreciate the unique setting of this thoroughly unique destination.
I’m glad I’ve ventured to do what relatively few people have done and explore the tiny geopolitical anomaly of Liechtenstein.
I recommend you do the same.