Drink up

Not just fair-weather friends – these rosés should be en­joyed come rain or shine

The Sunday Telegraph - Stella - - GOOD TASTE - with Susy Atkins

When I or­dered a glass of rosé in a pub re­cently, the owner re­marked that I was ‘just in time’. Her rosés were about to dis­ap­pear – delisted un­til well into the spring.

A few years ago, this would have been no sur­prise; rosé was ev­ery bit as spring/ sum­mer-sea­sonal as flip-flops. But now? Don’t we ex­pect to be able to drink pink through­out the year?

Rosé’s im­age has changed dra­mat­i­cally all round. It’s hardly ever flat and dull, as it of­ten used to be (mod­ern wine­mak­ers take more pride in their pinks), and it’s just as likely to be bone-dry and tangy as it is medium-sweet and bub­blegummy, so you can take your pick.

To­day, ev­ery­one seems to love it, even (gulp) men. It is also more likely to be matched with food, and that’s why I have learnt to love rosé in the colder months. Pair it clev­erly and it de­serves a place at the ta­ble any time. Take char­cu­terie. Ham/ jamón, pep­pery salami, spicy chorizo and smoked duck all work with a fruity rosé, es­pe­cially a dry, bright Span­ish rosado (see be­low).

Prawns, stir-fried, or as the base for risotto or paella, are per­fect with pink. As is white­bait or other small fish, fried – the wine cut­ting through crisply. Rosé is great with fresh­wa­ter fish, es­pe­cially trout, and it stars with salty dips like tape­nade and an­chois. Try it too with softly spiced veg­etable or tomato cous­cous. Here are three that won’t be go­ing into hi­ber­na­tion.

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