How to achieve pullover per­fec­tion

Skinny? Slouchy? High-necked or V? Fol­low these point­ers and you’ll have knitwear nailed

The Sunday Telegraph - Stella - - THE CONVERSATION -

A jumper, worn with a slouchy pair of trousers and a crisp white shirt, has be­come the ul­ti­mate sig­ni­fier of a cer­tain kind of modern el­e­gance. In the ’90s Hel­mut Lang and Jil Sander had us drool­ing over slim ones. From 2008, Phoebe Philo made us han­ker after the over­sized knit.

So what does the per­fect jumper look like now? Well, it de­pends on what you’re go­ing to wear it with. If it’s a skirt, the jumper shouldn’t be too long. Un­less you’re ex­cep­tion­ally tall, its waist­band should hit the top of the skirt’s waist­band. Where that hap­pens to be de­pends on how much of your stom­ach you’re happy to re­veal. A waist­band that sits an inch or so below your nat­u­ral one can make tum­mies look flat­ter... but it’s a ques­tion of try­ing it on.

Waist­bands on jumpers gen­er­ally look more flat­ter­ing and modern when they’re cut slightly loose and away from the body, rather than the stretchy ribbed kind that bunch up round your mid­dle.

Gen­er­ally, jumpers look bet­ter when they’re slightly big: tight isn’t flat­ter­ing on most bod­ies

Neck­lines? Vs make necks look longer, obvs. Boat necks are nice in the­ory, but an­noy­ing vis-à-vis bra straps, and some­how it’s never the right weather for one. I’m not mad on polo-necks on skinny knits, but they’re all right on an over­sized jumper. Cowls are sim­ply un­ac­cept­able – who in their right mind wants ex­tra sag? A good tur­tle neck or fun­nel should be cut slightly higher at the back to elon­gate the neck.

Sl­its and vents are good be­cause they help the sil­hou­ette, stop you from over­heat­ing and re­veal an in­ter­est­ing un­der­layer. Shoul­der seams al­ways look bet­ter when they’re placed fur­ther back, oth­er­wise you can ap­pear round-shoul­dered. Gen­er­ally, jumpers look bet­ter when they’re slightly big: tight is not flat­ter­ing on most bod­ies.

Sleeves? Not too long, oth­er­wise they look bulky when you in­evitably push them up your arm, or faddy. Jumpers should give the im­pres­sion of be­ing time­less, even when they’re not – and ef­fort­less, even though find­ing the per­fect one is any­thing but.

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