The Sunday Telegraph - Sunday

Church-wear poser

- THE MODERN ITALIAN COOK BY JOE TRIVELLI

On the theme of clothing, what should one wear to church? I only visit these days if it’s Christmas or a wedding, but while staying in Yorkshire I decided to attend vespers one evening at Ampleforth to see the monks – or, as they are more properly referred to, “the community”. I just pulled on jeans and a jersey, but felt hugely underdress­ed when other visitors appeared in tweed blazers and the monks strode in wearing their hooded robes. Although just before the service started, a woman and her son slid into my pew, both in white tracksuits, which took the pressure off a bit. While sitting there, listening to the chanting, I wondered if it matters if one turns up in jeans, black tie or even jogging kit, or whether the church should be grateful for bums on seats?

LSEVEN DIALS, £25

Joe Trivelli is head chef at the River Café and makes occasional appearance­s in food columns, but it’s quite possible you don’t know who he is. You should. The son of an Italian father and an English mother, Trivelli grew up with a foot in both countries and describes his cooking as “homely but not oldfashion­ed… progressiv­e Italian cooking”. The book is strong on vegetables and pasta, while dishes such as pork with celeriac, celery and chestnuts show an English accent too.

EBURY, £9.99

After being displaced because of the Grenfell Tower fire, some of the local women needed a place to cook, so they began to share the kitchens at the Al-manaar Muslim Heritage Centre. Recipes and knowhow were swapped and eventually the Hubb Community Kitchen (hubb means “love” in Arabic) was born. These recipes are from that kitchen and they’re terrific. Now supported by the Duchess of Sussex (who visited the kitchen and wrote the foreword), profits from sales will go to community food projects. Full of light-filled pictures, it’s an inspiratio­n.

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