6 OF THE BEST

Cus­tards, tried and tasted

The Sunday Telegraph - Sunday - - The Sunday Cook - By Madeleine How­ell

Win­ter is a time for com­fort­ing crum­bles and pud­dings, slathered in warm cus­tard. So it might be dis­heart­en­ing to hear that Ambrosia, the 100-year-old brand found

M&S DESSERT MENU THICK AND CREAMY MADAGASCAN VANILLA £2.40 FOR 500G

This has the thick­est con­sis­tency of them all; it’s pos­i­tively Mr Whippy-es­que, though run­nier when heated. Just very slightly sickly. 7/10

WAITROSE 1 MADAGASCAN VANILLA £1.72 FOR 500G

The whipped tex­ture here is al­most fluffy, and se­ri­ously mor­eish. Not as heavy or sweet as some, this is a great all-rounder for tarts and bakes. Well done! 10/10

AMBROSIA £2 FOR 750G, WIDELY AVAIL­ABLE

Tell­tale yel­low and gloop­ily thick, this re­mains a com­fort but tastes bland when pit­ted against its vanilla-flecked com­peti­tors. Pour it over trea­cle sponge. 8/10 in 43 per cent of UK homes, has been put up by sale by Premier Foods. But how does its cus­tard fare against fresh al­ter­na­tives? We put the best to the test to find out...

SAINS­BURY’S TTD MADAGASCAN VANILLA £2 FOR 500G

Un­re­fined de­mer­ara gives this a sub­tly caramelised flavour. Tast­ing ex­cep­tion­ally rich and creamy, a lit­tle goes a long way. A good match for lighter desserts. 9/10

OATLY VANILLA 99P FOR 250ML, TESCO

Free from lac­tose, milk pro­tein and soya, this is a lit­tle wa­tery, very sweet and quite dis­tinct from the dairy ver­sions. Made with palm oil that’s cer­ti­fied as sus­tain­able. 7/10

ASDA EX­TRA SPE­CIAL MADAGASCAN VANILLA £1.69 FOR 500G

A runny con­sis­tency with a smooth, silky mouth­feel. It’s not too rich over­all but tastes very sug­ary – best paired with tart, sour fruit-based desserts. 6/10

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