Guernsey is the ideal island for fine artisan gins, finds Susy Atkins
Welcome to Guernsey, island of gin. Three relatively new distillers are at work here, which means the sunny triangle of land in the Channel, measuring only 25 sq miles, is punching well above its weight in the world of our favourite premium spirit.
I visited last week, staying at boutique hotel Bella Luce, where Wheadon’s gins are made. This is a gin lover’s ideal bolt-hole, with a vast range behind the bar, regular botanical foraging and gin tasting events, and, best of all, the large copper still at work, in full view next to the restaurant. Distiller Luke Wheadon is an ex-chef who makes gins with particularly bold and bright notes. His first release, Wheadon’s Rock Samphire and Pink Grapefruit, launched in 2016 – do check out his other gins, Mandarin Lime and Hibiscus, and Yuzu, Lemongrass and Green Tea.
Blue Bottle Gin, created by Dr Matt Polli (also Guernsey born and bred) is made in the island’s capital, St Peter Port, and is more classic, with dry, subtle notes of traditional gin botanicals coriander seed and cubeb pepper and a floral hint from local gorse flowers. Dr Polli, originally a molecular embryologist (many scientists seem drawn to distilling), launched it in 2014 in a strikingly beautiful bottle – try it in dry martini with a hit of Noilly Prat.
Newly moved to St Peter Port from the north coast is the White Rock Brewery, where Ross Gledhill distils Ten Degrees Gin. His gin is vacuum distilled at a lower temperature, and it’s fresh and elegant. Gledhill is opening a tasting room and shop on the premises later this summer. Visit if you possibly can.
WHEADON’S GIN ROCK SAMPHIRE & PINK GRAPEFRUIT
Guernsey (46%, The Whisky Exchange, £36.95 for 70cl)
A highly aromatic gin with plenty of ripe and tangy citrus at first, then mineral, saline and herbal notes from the rock samphire to lift the finish. Makes a seriously good G&T with a premium, unflavoured tonic.
BLUE BOTTLE ARTISAN DRY GIN
Guernsey (47%, 31Dover.com, £30.75 for 70cl)
Smooth, with a light pepperiness and floral hints, ending on cardamom and nutmeg. Despite its relative strength, it is well balanced and subtle. One to sip on the rocks or use in fine cocktails.
TEN DEGREES ULTRA PREMIUM GIN
Guernsey (42%, Amazon, £36 for 70cl)
Fresh and lively, with a slight sweetness balanced by bergamot’s sharper twist and kaffir lime’s exotic note. This is a deeply refreshing gin that only opens up more when it is diluted with tonic.