THE SUNDAY COOK Angela Hartnett’s Italian feast for Christmas Eve

Inspired by her Italian roots, Angela Hartnett serves up the traditional seafood supper she enjoys on Christmas Eve

Christmas Eve, for Italians and many more European countries, is where the festivities really begin. Usually, I would be going to a party at my neighbour’s house before driving my landlady and friend, Sandra, to Midnight Mass at Farm Street Church in Mayfair. The Mass lasts until about 2am, so supper beforehand is always be something simple and celebratory, like spaghetti alle vongole; fish usually forms the centrepiece of an Italian Christmas, rather than turkey or goose.

With this in mind, I’m sharing a simple seafood supper for my Christmas Eve menu this year. Many of us will be spending the majority of Christmas Day in the kitchen, juggling roasting tins and steaming puddings, so this menu is designed with ease and speed in mind. Fritto misto ( which basically means mixed fried things and in this case is a spread of shellfish) is lovely to nibble and pick at while enjoying the cocktails overleaf, and it’s not something you make every day, either.

Likewise, the fish stew here can be plonked in the middle of the table, inviting everyone to spoon it into their own bowls and mop up the last of the sauce with a crust of bread. The fishmonger does most of the work for this – all that’s required is a little chopping, stirring and seasoning. When fridge space is precious, falling back on a few tins of tomatoes to make the main course is also extremely handy.

This is the essence of convivial, relaxed entertaining, where the quality of the fish does the heavy lifting, leaving you to sit back and enjoy your evening. Merry Christmas!