The Sunday Telegraph - Sunday

The plants that got us hooked on horticultu­re

Was there a particular plant that got you hooked on gardening and the natural world? Seriously green-fingered folk tell Jean Vernon about their gateway to growing

- Instagram @osiprestua­rant

It is believed that lockdown has created three million new gardeners. Chances are, though, that many were already nurturing a seed sown a long time ago; a cherished childhood memory of glorious gardens, perhaps, a secret den in a field, or treetop treasures discovered on a nature table at school.

We asked a selection of seriously dedicated gardeners to share their memory of the spark that ignited a garden, plant or nature passion.

MERLIN LABRON-JOHNSON

Michelin-starred chef Merlin LabronJohn­son was late to the gardening party, although early life lessons on the family farm in Devon left their mark. Food is his first love, but a new hobby came knocking when lockdown closed his restaurant, Osip, in the Somerset foodie hub of Bruton.

“Growing veg is a very recent thing. I was busy running the restaurant and never quite found time to get involved in any of the growing. It has become almost an obsession and something that I am now as passionate about as cooking. It provides a great kind of escapism and also there’s something slightly therapeuti­c and relaxing about it.”

It was while travelling in Peru that the seed was sown: Labron-Johnson was introduced to some plant ingredient­s that he loves to grow today.

“The ones that fascinated me were amaranth and the red and purple orach; it’s the most beautiful bright pink/claret colour. You can treat their leaves almost like spinach, but you can also use the grains and the seeds and cook them like a risotto.”

Labron-Johnson, like all gardeners, learned by his mistakes. He watched and read a lot on the internet, listened to local no-dig expert Charles Dowding and read Lucy Chamberlai­n’s book Step-by-Step Veg Patch.

“Gardening is like cooking in the sense that it is relatively unforgivin­g. You are nurturing something and then if it does go wrong, it’s devastatin­g because you’ve put so much care and effort into it. But you tend not to make the same mistakes again.”

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