A Highland fling for hikers
Ben Lerwill finds echoes of ancient clans and Clearances on a trek through Scotland’s most scenic landscapes
Early morning, and two golden eagles are sweeping high over Glencoe, the valley that is to Scotland what a scrum’s front row is to a rugby team. The mountains here are barrel-bellied bruisers: gargantuan hunks of land belched out by volcanoes, scoured by glaciers and slugged into shape by Father Time. But they have a soft side. The glen is green-sloped, silver-cragged and laced with waterfalls. It is, without qualm, one of the most beautiful valleys in Britain.
You need a sensible mindset to hike here, especially outside the summer season. On a visit at the end of September, I received a text message from a friend who knows my walking ambitions don’t always match my limitations. “Don’t be tempted by the Aonach Eagach ridge”, it read, referencing the glen’s fabled Grade 2 scramble. “You’ll never get down.” But Glencoe, like much of the Highlands, is not solely the domain of the peak-hardened super-fit. Walkers looking to stay on the valley floor can stroll the lower reaches of the River Coe, or wend through the woodland of An Torr to Signal Rock. For a more strenuous jaunt, the Lost Valley and the Pap of Glencoe are popular ascents with hefty rewards.
Likewise, for experienced Munrobaggers and serious climbers – who traditionally head for the ale pumps of the Clachaig Inn at day’s end – the choices are many. The A82 bisects the valley, and while hardly an endearing feature, it gives relatively easy access to different parts of the eight-mile glen, from the hills around the neat village of Glencoe in the west to the pyramidal bulk of Buachaille Etive Mòr in the east.
A trip here, though, is about more than the trails and the scenery. The aforementioned Signal Rock is said to be the place from where the order was given to begin the notorious Glencoe Massacre of 1692, which saw the MacDonald clan fatally betrayed by government forces. As in so many parts of Scotland, the billowing views here come with stories affixed.
The following Highlands walks, which might be feasible for some from April 26 onwards, offer more of the same. Some are long, others shorter. And bearing in mind the old Billy Connolly line that Scotland has two seasons – June and winter – sound judgment and the right gear are never less than essential.
KINLOCHLEVEN TO FORT WILLIAM
The West Highland Way celebrated its 40th anniversary in October. This walk follows the last stage of what is Scotland’s best-known long-distance trail, providing views of Ben Nevis and finishing steps away from Loch Linnhe. Distance: 15 miles
Map: OS 392
Route: Follow West Highland Way signage north from the village of Kinlochleven, climbing through forests and winding through glens to reach the trail’s end in Fort William.
TRESHNISH COAST
Across on Mull, this circular walk is one of the most scenic coastal hikes in the region, taking in abandoned crofters’ villages and prime-grade sea views. Distance: Seven miles
Map: OS 374
Route: From quarry layby on B8073, walk north along the road then take a left after the cattle grid. Follow the path southwest to the coast, then around a headland, before looping back inland.
THE LOST VALLEY
This short, sharp and sometimes scrambly ascent in Glencoe reveals a fabulous empty valley, hidden from view until you arrive. It requires a stream crossing. Distance: Four miles
Map: OS 384
Route: From either of the two car parks halfway along Glencoe, take the path between Beinn Fhada and Gearr Aonach, two of the Three Sisters ridges. At the valley, walk out and admire the buttresses, before retracing your steps.
BORERAIG & SUISNISH
This walk on Skye’s south coast incorporates two villages deserted since the Highland Clearances. On a clear day, top billing goes to the mountain scenery. Distance: 10 miles
Map: OS 412
Route: From the church of Cill Chriosd, walk a short distance northeast along the road to a wide track on your right. Bear south to the ruins of Boreraig, then west to Suisnish before heading north along the coast to rejoin the road.
CLAIS FHEARNAIG CIRCUIT
A handsome but sometimes challenging Cairngorms circuit, in an area that was a favourite with Queen Victoria. Distance: 10 miles
Map: OS OL58/OL57 Route: From the car park near Linn of Quoich, head northeast then soon sharp left, following the path above the River Quoich. After three miles, take a left after crossing the stream. Follow the path as it leads southwest, then south. Where the path meets the main track, turn left then stay straight, ignoring turn-offs, to loop back to the start.
NETHY BRIDGE TO AVIEMORE
An enjoyable day’s walk. Tracing a section of the Speyside Way, the trail leads first to the village of Boat of Garten, before the stretch to Aviemore serves up pine forests and Cairngorm views. Distance: 11 miles
Map: OS OL61/OL57
Route: Head southwest from Nethy Bridge along the Speyside Way, following signage as the path winds towards Aviemore. Fancy a shorter walk? Start at Boat of Garten.
LOCH AFFRIC
This long, memorable walk in lovely Glen Affric is straightforward to follow and gives cracking autumn views, but be aware that it passes through remote areas and offers no shortcuts.
Distance: 11 miles
Map: OS 415/414
Route: From the car park at the loch’s eastern end, take the path along the northern shore. At the fork at the western end, turn left to join the Affric Kintail Way as it travels along the southern shore.
KILLIN TO ARDTALNAIG
In good conditions, this undulating Perthshire walk along a section of the Rob Roy Way is a fine autumn adventure. Be warned, it involves more than 1,600ft of ascent and can get boggy. Distance: 12 miles
Map: OS OL48
Route: Head east from Killin along the Rob Roy Way. After a mile, turn right just after the stone bridge. Stay on the path as it climbs to Lochan Breaclaich then descends to a single-track road into Ardtalnaig.
More information: walkhighlands.co.uk. Travel within the UK is currently subject to restrictions. See Page 2.