Drink Up! How port became our lockdown love

For a drink with comforting qualities and staying power, pass the port, says Susy Atkins

We are still a nation of port lovers. Indeed, we have embraced northern Portugal’s famous fortified wines even more warmly during a year of lockdowns. Recent figures from The Port and Douro Wines Institute in Lisbon show port sales to the UK increased 11.4 per cent in volume in 2020; this, of course, during periods when restaurants, bars and pubs were closed. And, interestingly, when we spent far less time socialising with friends indoors. Traditionally, port is brought out to share at dinner parties – and we haven’t had any of those for months. So what’s going on?

Happily, I think we’re getting less pompous about port. During lockdown, many wine drinkers have treated themselves to the occasional glass in their own homes, with no social event or special occasion to prompt it. And port is an attractive choice, not only for its warming, soothing qualities (all red and tawny ports are strong with the addition of spirit and sweet with residual sugar) but also because an open bottle will last much longer than ordinary unfortified wines; for a good week or more, in my experience, if resealed and kept somewhere cool and dark. Just right for one or two people to dip into now and again, without any need for silly formalities (don’t start me on “passing the port” correctly).

“Port has acquired some of that Danish hygge quality over lockdown,” says Rob Symington, of port shippers Symington Family Estates, which owns the Graham’s, Warre’s, Dow’s and Cockburn’s port brands. “A lot people are kicking back with a drop, usually on the sofa after supper.” He would say that, wouldn’t he, but he must be right. Cockburn’s port, including the biggest selling port brand of all here, Cockburn’s Special Reserve, was up 20.6 per cent last year; in the last quarter of 2020, Symington reckons 11.6 bottles of Cockburn’s port were sold every minute in the UK.

I tasted Cockburn’s Special Reserve again this week, and it is likeable, red-cherryish with an almond edge, and decent value for money (20%, Tesco, £8 for 75cl) but there are more complex, interesting ports out there for only a couple of pounds more. For example, try Sainsbury’s Taste the Difference Special Reserve Port (20%, 75cl), which is a superior Symington ruby and over-delivers for £10 with its strawberry and black cherry aromas and hints of black pepper, chocolate and ripe brambles.

And here are three more that port lovers should snap up. By all means decant them before drinking, to open up their scents and soften their flavours, and to remove any sediment that might lurk in older versions. But only if you like, since we’re all more relaxed about port these days.