ON THE TRAIL OF TIGERS IN BANDHAVGARH
Play a game of grandmother’s footsteps (seeing without being seen) in the sal forests of Central India, on the trail of the endangered Bengal tiger.
WHY IT’S SPECIAL
There are only about 4,000 tigers left in the wild, spread among a score of reserves. Bandhavgarh National Park (bandhavgarhnational-park.com), on the forested flanks of a natural rock fortress, in remote Madhya Pradesh, offers the best chance of a sighting.
Tracking a tiger from a jeep or – if you are very lucky – a ranger’s elephant, is a thrilling experience. Tension mounts as soon as the langur monkeys set up a hullabaloo. They may just be having an argument, but chances are it’s because they sense that the king of the jungle is close by.
When you hear the deep throaty barks of the sambar deer, which only call when they have eye contact with a tiger, it is time to sweep the bush with your binoculars.
Like all members of the cat family, tigers seek out warmth and sunlight. You are likely to find them nonchalantly posing for photographs draped on a rock ledge or spread-eagled on a hot sand road. And while you are waiting there are more than 250 species of birds to seek out, as well as the tiger’s diminutive relative, the rare jungle cat.
YOU’LL NEVER FORGET…
The rapture of seeing a tiger emerge from its camouflage in the high grass; magnificent and muscular, its silken gold pelt as thick as a deep-pile rug.
INSIDER TIP
February and March are the best months to spot tigers as the grass cover dies back.
HOW TO DO IT
For the best chance of seeing tigers, join a tour. Wildlife Worldwide (01962 302086; wildlifeworldwide. com) has a 12-day Ultimate Tiger Safari taking in Bandhavgarh and Kanha reserves, costing from £2,995. Naturetrek (01962 733051; nature trek.co.uk) says it has a 100 per cent record of tiger sightings on its 13-day Indian Tiger Marathon tour, which visits the smaller reserves of Pench and Panna, as well as Bandhavgarh and Kanha. Prices from £3,195.