HOW TO PACK... FOR THE ALGARVE
When I think of the Algarve, it’s spoken in a Cockney accent, vowels elongated for extra emphasis. This is entirely because of Jill, our neighbour in the 1980s.
“We went to the Algaaarve,” she’d say, white teeth glistening in her tanned face. To my childish ear, it sounded impressive and exotic. I, too, wanted to go to the Algaaarve.
Fast forward a few decades, and I did. It was every bit as fabulous as Jill had made it sound: stunning beaches, clear blue sea, but, most strikingly, extremely friendly people. I first went with my two daughters, both under five at the time. Excellent choice: the Portuguese love children, the children love pasteis de nata, and I love Sagres beer.
I am so pleased for Portugal that it’s been taken off the red list, and can welcome all the Brits who love it once more. So, without ado, let’s pack for the Algarve. This being a beach holiday, and us having been deprived of those for so long, first into the suitcase must surely be a swimming costume. Let’s ease our post-lockdown bodies into a tankini, rather that a bikini: this teal and gold “Corsica” by Boden (top £45, bottoms £35; boden.co.uk) is just the ticket. Hush’s gold sandals (£69; hush-uk.com) will coordinate well, as will this reversible beach bag by La Double J (£240; ladoublej. com/en) – blue on one side, orange on the other.
And let’s not forget a dress, but make it casual, since the Algarve is a laid-back destination. This sky blue shirred sundress by ethical brand Aspiga (£120; aspiga.com) comes in biodegradable fabric that’s as light as air: perfect for beach, bar and beyond. And while I refuse to suggest a jacket, practicality demands that we include this light cardie by M&S (£19.50; marksandspencer.com), as blue as the Med in which you’ll soon be swimming. stretches almost 40 miles. This is the home of the increasingly endangered Mediterranean chameleon. With a fast tongue that is almost half as long as its body, this chameleon can change colour to blend into its natural surroundings.
A further highlight of the Ria Formosa are the seahorses. The local population here once accounted for up to 90 per cent of the world’s total, but numbers have seriously decreased over the years. Divided between the longsnouted and short-snouted seahorse, these quirky residents can be seen by snorkelling on the bottom of the marine park.
Parents who want to introduce their children to nature after a year behind four walls should book into Alentejo’s Craveiral Farmhouse (craveiral.pt), a recent addition to Portugal’s rural hotel scene. From helping to pick vegetables in the kitchen garden to meeting the goats and pigs on the farm and riding horses, the outdoor life is the one that is cherished and celebrated here.
THERE’S MORE TO DO THAN PLAY GOLF
While many people think of Portugal as being synonymous with golf – and indeed many northern Europeans flock to the Algarve’s many courses in the sunny autumn months – you are far more likely to catch the locals surfing the waves.
Ericeira, on the west coast above Lisbon, is considered the surfing capital of Europe with nearby Peniche home to Europe’s most famous barrelling wave. A little further up the coast, Nazare is home to the biggest wave ever surfed (111 feet). This trio of standout locations pulls in the crowds, but there has been a lack of high-end accommodation for
downtime – until now. Step up the sustainable Immerso Hotel (immerso.pt), which will open at the end of June in the one-time fishing village of Ericeira. The hotel promises 37 rooms, a finedining restaurant by Alexandre Silva, of the Michelin-starred Loco, and its own surfboard production studio, obviously.
But it is not just watersports that are popular in Portugal. No doubt because of the sunshine, walking holidays proliferate on Portugal’s mainland and its islands. Much has been written about the Vicentina routes which run up the west coast from the Algarve into the Alentejo (rotavicentina.com), but for something a little different, try trekking along Madeira’s levadas (madeiraoceantrails.com). These ancient paths were originally carved out so that water could be carried from the humid parts of the island to the dry. Given that the island is rich with interesting botanical species, the landscape it traverses never gets boring.
Who said active has to mean adrenalin-fuelled? Portugal possesses a fantastic diversity of habitats and consequently a huge number of birds can be spotted across the country, especially with its location on a popular migratory route. What keen birders must first decide is whether your interests lie in wetland birds (such as greater flamingos, purple herons and little bustards) which can all be found in the Sado Estuary Nature Reserve, just 30 minutes from Lisbon, or birds of prey (such as golden and Bonelli’s eagles, griffon vultures and black storks) that can be found over the rolling plains of the Alentejo’s interior and in the north of the country.
Frequent visitors to the Algarve in summer are European bee-eaters, hoopoes and golden orioles. Guided tours are available through Birding in Portugal (birdinginportugal.com).
CLIMB MOUNTAINS HIGH
At 7,713 feet above sea level, the highest mountain in Portugal is Mount Pico, which can be found on Pico Island in the Azorean archipelago. This is also the top of the world’s largest mainly underwater mountain range – the midAtlantic range.
A dormant volcano, Mount Pico is, along with wine and whales, one of the main attractions of the island. Climbing it is considered challenging and is an activity that is best undertaken with a guide (tripixazores.com).
After working up a sweat, stay in Lava Homes (lavahomes.com/pt), a cluster of 14 houses built in 2019 using local stone and cryptomeria wood within view of Mount Pico. Magma, the on-site restaurant, offers traditional island dishes such as octopus in red wine and the much-loved lapas (limpets).
In the north of Portugal you’ll find the highest mountain range, the beautiful Serra da Estrela. Although it has many marked trails for walkers, it is a place where time seems to have stood still, with its impressive glacial valleys offering a deep silence only broken by the sound of the rushing rivers that cut through it and the bells of sheep being herded by the Serra da Estrela dogs.
Here the eponymous cheese is still handmade by artisans from the raw milk of the bordaleira sheep, and coagulated using local thistles, rather than rennet, making it suitable for vegetarians. Traditionally bound in cloth, the cheese comes in a circular shape and its creamy, semi-soft consistency provides a full flavour.
Inevitably, wool and textiles have also long been made in this region. To experience it at its finest, stay at Casa de Sao Lourenco (casadesaolourenco.pt) – one of the first Portuguese inns built in the 1940s and now the only five-star accommodation in the area. It is owned by the same family who brought the Burel wool factory back to life, preserving an important heritage.
EMBRACE ISLAND LIFE
Porto Santo is the lesser-known little sister of Madeira. Its name, translated as blessed harbour, comes from 1418 when it provided the Portuguese navigators who had been blown off course from their exploration of the western coast of Africa with a safe haven.
The jewel in its crown is its golden beach, which at almost six miles long is said to have curative properties – mostly from the abundance of iodine, magnesium and calcium present in the waves that wash over them. The best time to visit is for the feast day of the island’s patron saint, St John, on June 23 and 24, which promises a hugely festive atmosphere. Once there, do not miss a visit to the 15th-century house – now a museum – of Christopher Columbus.
The Berlengas Islands off the mainland of Portugal make an enjoyable day trip on the ferry from Peniche harbour in summer. Inhabited since the Roman era by a succession of invaders, from Vikings to pirates, the islands have now been added to the World Network of Biosphere Reserves in order to protect the biodiversity of the archipelago. You can snorkel around the islands or visit the caves in glass-bottomed boats.
On Berlenga Grande, a visit to the 15th-century monastery (later repurposed as a 17th-century fort) of St John the Baptist is a must. Classified as a nature reserve, with numbers of rare bocage’s lizards, shearwaters and maritime crows, it is dominated by yellowlegged seagulls.
Last, but by no means least, is the uninhabited island of Ilha Deserta – otherwise known as Ilha Barreta, one of the five islands in the Ria Formosa. Reached by boat from Faro it provides a real
Robinson Crusoe experience. Sadly, the only building on the island – an excellent restaurant, Estamine, famed for its seafood – burnt down just a few weeks ago, so rebuilding is currently under way.
The best way to explore this particularly beautiful island? By catamaran tour (saltsea.pt), with the famous sunset here making a perfect end to the day.