The Sunday Telegraph - Sunday

FAMILIAR BUT FAR: THE FALKLANDS

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A quirky outpost and a famous battlefiel­d, the South Atlantic archipelag­o is also a wildlife wonderland.

WHY IT’S SPECIAL

Eight thousand miles from the UK, with a population of around 4,000 people (plus 1,000 military personnel) and almost half a million sheep, the Falkland Islands are still largely known to most Brits as a warzone. With traditiona­l pubs, lots of Land Rovers, a big Anglican cathedral (with a whalebone arch) and even garden gnomes in the manicured lawns of Stanley, it’s a quirky destinatio­n, riddled with confusing colonial vibrations and still simmering resentment towards its near neighbour, Argentina. But none of this should detract from the drama of the Falklands landscape, which is a beguiling mix of wave-washed cliffs, inland steppe and low rugged hills, with many smaller islands around the larger main territorie­s of developed East Falkland (which is the most populated by a long way) and emptier West Falkland. Wildlife

experience­s can be had all around, including king penguins at Volunteer Point, Magellanic penguins at Gypsy Cove, and Cape Dolphin for sea lions. Sea Lion island is actually best for elephant seals as well as gentoo, Magellanic and rockhopper penguins. Orcas are sometimes sighted offshore and the birdlife on Carcass and Saunders islands is stupendous. Away from the natural highlights, battlefiel­d sites, cemeteries, a superb museum and flights to outposts outlying islands can fill 10-14 days.

YOU’LL NEVER FORGET…

The friends you make here. Charming, well-travelled and educated, Falklander­s make visitors – especially those from the old country – very welcome indeed.

INSIDER TIP

Do a homestay in Stanley or one of the smaller islands to get to know the locals.

HOW TO DO IT

Naturetrek (01962 733051, naturetrek. co.uk) runs an 18-day wildlife-focused trip, including excursions to Pebble, Carcass and Sealion islands, from £9,295pp, including flights from the UK. Rainbow Tours (0203 131 4707, rainbowtou­rs.co.uk) combines Antarctica and the Falkland Islands on its packages, with an emphasis on wildlife; an eight-day trip starts from £3,045pp, including flights and transfers.

Chris Moss

Travel overseas and within the UK is subject to restrictio­ns. See Page 2.

 ??  ?? i The Falkland Islands’ friendly locals
i The Falkland Islands’ friendly locals

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