20 ways to be wowed by Croatia
As the country sets out a plan for welcoming British visitors back, Jane Foster reveals its highlights, from beaches, hiking trails and Michelin-starred restaurants to the hottest new hotel on Hvar
Croatia, with its rocky, pine-scented islands, glistening deep blue sea and mountainous mainland coast, is a gorgeous destination much loved by sailing folk, adventure sports enthusiasts and history buffs. While things for summer remain uncertain, the good news is that Croatia is welcoming visitors, having reopened its doors earlier this month. So when we can travel from the UK, Croatia will be waiting.
And without the usual influx of cruise liners, the stone-paved squares and cobbled alleys of its historic port towns promise to be far more peaceful than they have been for two decades. Pack light for summer – bring swimwear, sun cream, some stylish clothes for the evenings, and good walking shoes. The Adriatic Sea is warm enough to swim in from June into October and if you decide to visit in autumn, the weather will still be warm – ideal, even, for more strenuous activities such as cycling and hiking. Again, pack light, but bring a waterproof mac in case of showers.
For cultural sightseeing, you might start with the grand Roman and Byzantine
monuments in Porec and Pula in Istria, or Zadar and Split in Dalmatia. Then there’s Dubrovnik, with its magnificent medieval fortifications protecting the gorgeous stone-paved old town. The islands of Dalmatia and the Kvarner Gulf are home to quaint harbour towns – notably Korcula, Hvar, Rab and Losinj, which developed into naval bases under the Venetian Empire. At that time, local sea captains would return from their travels with exotic plant species – jasmine, oleander and bougainvillea still grace the gardens here today, while towering palms line many a seafront promenade. When it comes to where to stay, choices range from modern seaside resorts with sports facilities and spas to small family-run boutique hotels in centuries-old stone houses. Alternatively, you might book a swanky villa, with garden and pool. For the outdoors types, there’s camping, too.
There are many reasons to visit Croatia – perhaps too many – but here are some of the most compelling…
STAY AT THE HOTTEST NEW HOTELS
On trendy Hvar, the slickest newcomer is the Maslina Resort (maslinaresort. com), which opened in August 2020. It sits in a bay with a pebble beach backed by pine woods, just outside Stari Grad, and its motto is “mindful luxury” – all 50 rooms have sea views and contemporary interiors with wood and stone details, while the best suites come with plunge pools. Activities include yoga, meditation and pilates. Further up the coast in north Croatia, this season will see the inauguration of the new Hilton Rijeka Costabella Beach Resort & Spa (hilton.com/en) which promises spectacular views over the Kvarner Gulf toward the islands of Krk and Cres. It has 132 rooms, 66 villa-apartments with kitchenettes, a vast spa extending over three levels, and a beach with water sport facilities.
ENJOY THE SIGHTS WITHOUT THE CROWDS
There have been no big cruise ships on the Adriatic since March 2020 and it’s unlikely there will be any this year, meaning you can explore the magnificent historic sites of Croatia’s port cities, such as Diocletian’s Palace in Split, without being overwhelmed by countless tour groups disembarking from massive vessels. The most popular ports of call are Dubrovnik, Split, Zadar, Hvar, Korcula and Sibenik. To get an idea of the usual scale of visitors, in 2019, Dubrovnik received around 800,000 cruise ship passengers, Split some 300,000, and Zadar 150,000.
BATHE AT BEACH CLUB HVAR
Following a makeover in summer last year, the former Bonj les Bains on Hvar has been renamed Beach Club Hvar (beachhvar.com). Lying a 10-minute walk from Hvar Town’s harbour, it sits in a sheltered south-facing bay, backed by towering Aleppo pines. The white stone colonnade, dating from 1927, has always been a popular and stylish meeting place. In the 1930s, locals would stage swimming, rowing and tug-of-war competitions here on Sundays, and the town’s brass band would play. Nowadays, you’re more likely to hear lounge music. To bathe in true style, reserve a private pontoon with a baldachin (fourposter) shaded by wafting chiffon curtains, and order prosecco and a fruit platter from the slick bar-restaurant.
TAKE YOUR PICK FROM SEVEN MICHELIN-STAR RESTAURANTS
The two newest additions are both on the islands – Boskinac at Hotel Boškinac (boskinac.com) on Pag and the LD Restaurant (ldrestaurant.com) at the Lesic Dimitri Palace on Korcula. “Our tasting menus let you experience the real flavours of the best produce from Pag and the surrounding region,” says Mirela Suljic, owner of Boskinac. Pag is known for its excellent lamb, papki sir (sheep’s cheese), tuna, octopus and makaruni (homemade pasta).
Meanwhile, at the LD Restaurant, guests can dine on a lovely waterside terrace in Korcula’s medieval old town. “This year the menu will be very personal – it could be named The Menu of Lost Things,” says Marko Gajski, the LD chef. “We will work with sea urchin, lobster, tuna, truffles and caviar.” The
LD Restaurant has its own organic garden supplying the kitchen with fresh vegetables and herbs, while the wines and olive oil are locally sourced.
Croatia’s remaining five Michelinstar restaurants can all be found on the mainland – Pelegrini (pelegrini.hr) in Sibenik, 360 (360dubrovnik.com) in Dubrovnik, Draga di Lovrana (dragadilovrana.hr) in Lovran, Noel (noel. hr) in Zagreb and Monte (monte.hr) in Rovinj.
GET THEE TO A MONASTERY
On Lopud island, near Dubrovnik, Lopud 1483 (lopud1483.com) occupies the former Franciscan monastery, founded in 1483. The owner, Francesca Thyssen-Bornemisza, spent 20 years working on the renovation with Zagrebbased Arhitektri studio, and it was finally completed in 2020. Her family own a world-class collection of Byzantine, Renaissance and contemporary art – each year different pieces will be displayed throughout the property.
Franciscan monasteries are known for their serene atmosphere, an element that prevails here still today. Original historic details, such as exposed stonework, magnificent wooden beam ceilings and tile floors, have been retained and combined with contemporary design. The complex centres on a Renaissance cloister – here the 13 former monks’ cells have been converted into five suites, with minimalist furniture by Italian designer Paola Lenti, antiques and contemporary art.
Lopud 1483 is set in gardens planted with olive trees, fig trees and medicinal herbs, and incorporates a 16th-century fortress. There’s no restaurant as such, but in-house chefs will meet individual guests’ demands, and can arrange dining indoors or at various secluded spots in the garden.
This summer, the complex is available for exclusive rentals only from May to September, but you are able to rent one of the five superb suites on an individual basis in October.
TAKE A WALK ON THE WILD SIDE
One of Croatia’s top draws is its wild unspoilt landscapes and seascapes. Newly designated in 2021 is the Mount Dinara Nature Park (croatia.hr) which lies in the remote Dalmatian hinterland, close to the border with Bosnia-Herzegovina. At its heart is Croatia’s highest peak, Sinjal, at 1,831m (6,007ft). Marked hiking paths lead through the meadows and arid rocky karst terrain that are the habitat of bears, wolves and lynx. Croatia has 12 nature parks and eight national parks (Plitvice Lakes, Krka, Risnjak, Northern Velebit, Paklenica, Mljet, Kornati and Brijuni). By definition, a national park encompasses land that is wild and unaltered, while a nature park can be partially cultivated.
EXPERIENCE THE EUROPEAN CAPITAL OF CULTURE
The proud port city of Rijeka was European Capital of Culture 2020 (rijeka2020.eu/en) but due to disruption caused by Covid, special events have been extended into 2021. Thanks to the project, Rijeka underwent renovations and saw a flurry of new attractions open over the last year. “You should see the new permanent installation (projected digital images and sound), by Czech artist Pavel Mrkus, in the Fish Market, a beautiful Vienna Secession building,” says Irena Kregar Segota, director at Rijeka2020. “It’s part of the Lungomare Art project – other works include a new children’s playground, by Croatian designers, halfway along the Molo Longo, a 1.7km (one mile) breakwater, with views back to the city. Then there’s Exportdrvo, a 1960s warehouse that is now a cultural space hosting exhibitions and concerts.”
GO ISLAND HOPPING
White-and-blue state-owned Jadrolinija (jadrolinija.hr) ferries and catamarans serve the islands from the mainland. This means you can combine a day or two of cultural sightseeing in one of the great port cities (Rijeka, Zadar, Sibenik, Split or Dubrovnik), with several nights on one or more islands. This will enable you to enjoy an altogether slower pace of life, zone out on the beaches and try some watersports. Ferry prices are very reasonable, but catamarans are somewhat more pricey (and need prior reservation in summer). Passengers must wear masks inside ships, but don’t need to do so if sitting up on the deck and adhering to social distancing.
BE TRANQUIL IN THE ‘PEARL OF THE ADRIATIC’
In July 2020, Croatia’s most glamorous destination saw just 30 per cent of visitors compared with 2019’s numbers. South Dalmatia is geographically isolated, cut off from the rest of Croatia by a tiny coastal strip of Bosnia at Neum, and backed by the rugged limestone mountains of Herzegovina. As there’s no motorway connection to Central Europe, most visitors to Dubrovnik arrive by plane. So, while the Pearl of the Adriatic remains uncharacteristically tranquil, you can walk the glorious medieval city walls (citywallsdubrovnik.hr) without the crowds, get a restaurant table at Azur (azurvision. com), and stay at the Hilton Imperial (hilton.com) at more reasonable rates.
GLAMP BY THE SEASIDE
Living outdoors with Mother Nature is a great way to commit to social distancing while avoiding crowded indoor spaces, making it an obvious winner this summer. Croatia has more than 300 campsites (camping.hr), but many of the best can be found at waterside locations on the islands.
For a total escape, Glamping Festa (zut.hr/glamping) on the uninhabited islet of Zut, just outside Kornati National Park, is a fine choice. Here, five bell-tents (sleeping two to three) are found on wooden decks set amid olive groves and dry stone walls with views over the sea. The owners also run the nearby Festa seafood restaurant, which is popular with yachters and promises a generous breakfast.
Alternatively, Plage Cachée (drinkovicvillas.com) on Hvar’s north coast, is hidden away on a wooded peninsula with a small pebble beach. Here, four handcrafted safari tents, each with a king-size bed, have a boho-chic vibe. Guests have use of an outdoor kitchen, a barbecue and a table seating 12.
GO CAR-FREE ON ZLARIN
The tiny islet of Zlarin lies a 30-minute ferry ride from Sibenik and has just one village and no cars. It has committed to
TAKE THE EASY ROAD
A number of companies
offer ready-made packages in Croatia, so you don’t have to do any
of the work. Abercrombie & Kent’s six-night Croatia Family Yacht Cruise sees you sail the islands of South
Dalmatia aboard a private skippered yacht. From £2,235pp (01242 386 465; abercrombiekent.co.uk).
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Tasting Menu of Croatia is an 11-night voyage that
allows you to feast on gourmet delights all the
way from Zagreb to Dubrovnik, with Audley Travel. From £7,605pp
(01993 838 234; audleytravel.com).
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Exodus’ Croatia Islands & Mountains seven-night hiking holiday takes you to Krka and Paklenica National Parks. From £1,099pp (020 3811 6417;
exodus.co.uk).
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The seven-night Croatia Wine Tour by Bike with Responsible Travel sees you peddle through Istria with vineyard stops along the way. From £523pp (01273 823 700; responsibletravel.com).
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Well-being Escapes’ seven-night well-being Family Holiday at Sun Gardens offers relaxation and recreation on the coast near Dubrovnik. From £2,101 for a family of four (020 3735 7555; wellbeingescapes.com). restricting single-use plastic, promotes more sustainable living, and hosts educational workshops on composting (facebook.com/zlarinbezplastike). Rubbish disposal is a massive challenge on the Dalmatian islands and marine plastic pollution is a global problem, so hopefully other islands will follow Zlarin’s example. There are several renovated stone cottages available to rent on Zlarin, such as House Vana (stonehouses-zlarin.com).
UNWIND ON PARADISE BEACH
The best-known beach on Rab, Paradise beach (Rajska plaza in Croatian) is a 1.5km (1 mile) swathe of sand that curves around a sheltered bay. Its shallow waters and soft seabed makes it ideal for families with kids. Water sports here include sea kayaking, SUP, jet skiing and parasailing. There are also beachvolley courts on the sand.
SET SAIL AROUND THE ISLANDS
With 1,100 miles of meandering mainland coast and more than a thousand islands, islets and reefs, Croatia is a sailor’s paradise. In peak season (mid-July to mid-August), harbours in trendy destinations such as Hvar Town are packed with boats. As the summer heat subsides, late August sees sporadic storms, but in September, the weather stabilises and this time is much-loved by sailing folk for its tranquillity, gentle breeze
h Bay watch: the Beach Club Hvar nestles in a sheltered southfacing bay g Your table awaits at the Azur Asian Fusion Restaurant in Dubrovnik
and calm sea. In Dalmatia this time is known as bonaca.
“September is much less crowded on the sea,” says Pasko Klisovic from NCP Charter (ncp-charter.com) based at Mandalina Marina in Sibenik. “Charter prices are more convenient, and the weather is perfect, less hot than in August and with just enough wind for relaxed sailing.” Sibenik makes the ideal starting point for sailing the uninhabited rocky islets and intense blue waters of Kornati National Park (np-kornati.hr) and Telascica Nature Park.
BE A CASTAWAY
If you’re looking for a thorough detox from modern urban living and want to re-harmonise with the elements, you’ll find some super little Robinzonski (Robinson Crusoe) style bolt-holes to rent on the islands; notably on Pasman and Dugi Otok, near Zadar. The nicest ones are built of natural stone and lie hidden away in remote waterside locations near beaches. Most are very basic and off-grid, running on private watertanks and solar-powered electricity – so you’ll be cooking with gas or barbecuing. Adriatic (adriatic.hr) has a wide range of properties to choose from.
VISIT THE VINES AND SAMPLE THE WINES
The Ancient Greeks brought the vine to Croatia. The oldest vineyards, dating back to the 3rd century BC, are in Lumbarda on Korcula, which still produces a dry white, called Grk (“Greek” in Croatian), from that same grape. But nowadays, Dalmatia is better known for the red Plavac, while Istria produces red Teran and white Malvazija. Many cellars are open for tours and tastings through summer. “We provide Wine and Walk tours through our vineyards for small groups – the walk includes seeing various grape types, hearing about their processing, learning how they’re aged and finally tasting the result, right there in the vineyard,” says Sandra Juric of Meneghetti Wine Hotel (meneghetti.hr/ en) in Istria.
Other local varieties include the dry white Zlatina on Krk and robust red Babic near Sibenik. However, it’s not only the grape that defines the wines – soils and topography count, too. The steep southwest facing slopes on Peljesac
peninsular receive maximum daily sunshine, to produce potent Dingac, Croatia’s most esteemed red, with an alcohol content of up to 17 per cent. Korta Katarina Winery (kortakatarinawinery.com) has an adjoining hotel, Villa Korta Katarina (villakortakatarina.com), in Orebic.
RIDE THE RAPIDS
Croatia has several rivers ideal for rafting, with regular guided tours organised down the falls and rapids of the Mreznica near Karlovac, the Zrmanja near Zadar, and the Cetina near Omis. Local providers include Huck Finn (huckfinncroatia.com) for rafting on the Mreznica; Riva Rafting Centre (rivarafting-centar.hr) for the Zrmanja; and Adventure Dalmatia (adventuredalmatia.com) for the Cetina, with most tours lasting around three hours. All companies offerinf rafting trips will supply wetsuits, helmets and life jackets, but you should bring a bathing suit, towel and trainers.
If you choose to raft the Mreznica, you can combine your trip with a visit to Aquatika (aquariumkarlovac.com), a freshwater aquarium in Karlovac (54km/34mi southwest of Zagreb). Here you can discover more about the city’s four rivers – the Mreznica, Korana, Kupa and Dobra.