Don’t get a room. Rent the whole hotel…
… if you have 13 friends, that is. John O’Ceallaigh checks in at Henry’s Townhouse, an ‘exclusive-use’ luxury hotel minutes from Hyde Park
Given the complexities of the past year, perhaps it’s no bad thing that No 24 Upper Berkeley Street in London’s Marylebone will be the boutique hotel that never was. Born and raised around the corner, Jane Collins bought the property with her husband Steven in 2018: already proprietors of Temple Guiting Manor in the Cotswolds, they had high hopes of turning what was then a “really grotty, awful B&B” into Henry’s Townhouse, an intimate luxury hotel. Even in its dishevelled state they could discern true architectural and structural beauty – it was Grade II listed for good reason. And there was the obvious appeal of its location, on a discreet residential street still just minutes from Hyde Park and Selfridges.
But then Covid came to stay and components of the property that would previously have been considered charming expressions of intimacy were suddenly rendered problematic: its seven bedrooms straddled a single narrow stairwell; if shared with strangers, the slender “carriage-like” cocktail snug would now seem worryingly congested rather than cosy; should everyone dine at once, there would be far too much bustle in the small basement kitchen and dining room at breakfast.
And so those hotel plans were put on hold and Henry’s Townhouse became an exclusive-use holiday home right in the centre of London. After my stay there, I think this is one Covid-induced change that may well be for the better.
A few minutes’ walk from the Hyatt Regency London’s the Churchill and recently opened Nobu Portman Square, the earlier incarnation of Henry’s Townhouse never saw itself as a direct competitor to the large-scale upmarket hotels that surround it, even if the intended £450 per night starting rate for individual rooms would have pitched it firmly alongside many of the capital’s priciest properties. Instead of a spa and pool and a bustling bar, its appeal was always based on its discretion, personalised service and the cachet that comes from staying somewhere that isn’t widely known or obvious.
Those attributes remain in place, and an awareness of the building’s history makes its reassignment as an exclusiveuse holiday home seem even more appropriate. No 24 was once the home of Henry Austen (sibling of Jane) and his legacy provided the inspiration for this newest version of the property. Designed by Jane and Steven in collaboration with Russell Sage Studios, the interiors convey what the partners call “an intelligent and glamorous re-imagining” of the building’s origins.
To me, “glamorous” doesn’t sit quite right as a descriptor of somewhere so homely, but history buffs and fans of traditional Georgian architecture and design will agree on the property’s beauty. Having long worked in antiques, Jane has threaded the house with treasures she had held onto for decades: 100 or so pieces personally acquired by her to decorate the interior. As we made our way from one room to another, she pointed out rare laces sewn into cushions, plush fabrics sourced painstakingly and an immaculate chinoiserie-style dressing table, provenance unknown, that she had kept in storage for 25 years. It stands in Eliza, which like all the bedrooms is named after notable figures related to the Austens [de Feuillide; her novelist cousin]. Finished in dusty pinks and commonly considered the prettiest of the bedrooms, its centrepiece is a towering four-poster bed; behind it, a roll-top bath is encased by folds of fabric that drape from the roof like a circus tent.
All stocked with complimentary snacks, LA Bruket Swedish organic bath amenities and (most agreeably) a welcome half-bottle of Bollinger, other bedrooms include the burgundy ground-floor Henry and penthouse
There’s a team in place to keep everything in order
Phylly. I was told the curious twin canopy beds in Frank, with their lowlying curved roofs, were examples of campaign furniture that had been designed to break down so they could be transported easily.
In a parallel universe I might have been displeased had I been allocated this last-available room upon check-in at a booked-out Henry’s Townhouse hotel, so oppressive did those squat overhead arches feel to me, but in an exclusive-use property the space seemed ideal for children or that one couple in every group who have a more pronounced appreciation of the quirky.
The property’s common spaces also take on fresh charm when considered on an exclusive-use basis. Little broader than a corridor and featuring an honesty bar stocked with British spirits, including Cotswolds whisky, Sipsmith gin and Chase potato vodka, the appropriately named snug is an inviting spot for some nicely sozzled, knee-knocking gossip between good friends. The small lounge, in a jaunty shade of olive green, is where couples can cuddle up for a day of easy listening and the weekend papers. For corporate buyouts, the basement kitchen, pantry and dining area can be cleverly converted into a conference suite with big-screen broadcast facilities, but the space is at its best when hosting lively breakfasts or afternoon teas for all the family.
Both of those meals are offered on a complimentary basis daily, with house manager Ann (resident in an apartment directly connected to the townhouse) always on hand to help out with whatever might be needed, and a team in place to quietly keep things ticking over. Key among those other supporters is the chef George Parkes, whose focus is firmly on solid, hearty and unpretentious British cuisine.
Featuring tennis-ball-wide sausage rolls with black-garlic ketchup and beautifully gooey chocolate-and-walnut brownies, his afternoon tea paired beautifully with sparkling wine from Hampshire’s Hambledon Vineyard, an impressive new discovery for me. Best of all, however, was dinner, taken at the communal refectory table.
We began with shared starters of celeriac soup with truffle croutons and shaved chestnuts. Then came our mains: a hulking chicken, leek-andtarragon pie served family style in one baking tray alongside big steaming bowls of help-yourself buttered winter veg. Though I’ve enjoyed my fair share of Michelin-starred meals, laid-back dinners like that often make for the perfect evening if enjoyed alongside friends and family. It made me recall another Jane Austen quote, which as it turns out makes an ideal endorsement for Henry’s: “There is nothing like staying at home for real comfort.”
Henry’s Townhouse sleeps 14, from £4,950 per night including breakfast, afternoon tea, soft drinks and an evening aperitif for the group (henrystownhouse.co.uk; 07557 100892). From Monday, May 17, indoor mixing will be permitted in England according to the rule of six/two households.