Five things to do in Marseilles when we can travel there again
Anthony Peregrine shares his favourite city highlights.
hOn Vieux Port’s north side, the Musée des Civilisations de l’Europe et de la Méditerranée (MuCEM) dedicated to Mediterranean culture, was the outstanding success of the city’s year as a European Capital of Culture. The museum is world-class, with some cracking exhibitions – spanning paintings, video installations, graffiti, photos by the likes of Ai Weiwei and Joan Miró – already under its belt. mucem.org h The most famous of islands near Marseilles is the prison island of If. Despite what they tell you on the experience and well worthwhile. The other two islands, Pomègues and Ratonneau (collectively known as “Frioul”), are joined by a dyke. They afford fine walking along wild limestone cliffs and bathing from creeks in summer. frioul-if-express.com h The “13 Coins” has a reputation for embodying the typical Marseilles bar, and has featured as such in several films. It also served as the model for the bar in France’s favourite TV soap opera, the Marseilles-based Plus Belle La Vie. It was once the haunt of the poet and crime writer Jean-Claude Izzo, who wrote better about Marseilles than anyone. Above and beyond that, it’s a super-friendly spot on whose terrace locals and tourists all meet up. 45 Rue Sainte-Françoise h Chez Madie Les Galinettes is a point of reference for Provençal specialities – both fish and meat (including a rare chance in France to eat lambs’ testicles). There’s contemporary art on the walls, a terrace out front and the best of Marseilles on your plate. The daube beef in wine may be the finest in town, and the bouillabaisse isn’t at all bad, either. madielesgalinettes.com
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