HAUTE HOSTING

William Hanson, etiquette coach and author of The Bluffer’s Guide to Entertaining advises:

At Christmas, you might host larger numbers of people than your dining table might comfortably allow. Higgledypiggledy seating is to be expected, but try to avoid your guests feeling too cluttered. Communal service, in which dishes are served in dishes on the table rather than coming out plated, restaurant-style, is the norm at Christmas, so be mindful that your table decorations allow space.

Don’t light candles at Christmas lunch – but candles at dinner are an absolute must.

Everyone has a different cracker policy. Some people are adamant that crackers are only pulled after the meal, but then there’s little point in the paper hats. If you pull them at the start of the meal, the terrible jokes within can help to fuel the conversation. In any case, they should be placed to the left of each person’s table setting on the bread plate, on a proper napkin. Linen, not tissue. Do deploy the children to help lay and clear the table. Warm plates are a must, unless it’s a cold course.

Set the wine on the table in carafes for guests to serve themselves. Be liberal with libations. Christmas is a time for generosity.

Guests should also help themselves to gravy – but it should be ladled, not poured, even from a gravy boat.

The hosts should be seated at the heads of the table.

Christmas lunch is a marathon, not a sprint. Hosts should start eating first and finish last, setting the pace of the meal.

Correctly, the fork and the spoon for the pudding does not go above the plate. This style is an Americanism. Rather, it goes down to the left and right-hand side of the rest of the cutlery, unless you need to save space.