Sam McKnight has styled the hair of everyone from Kate Moss to Princess Diana and Jodie Comer. He tells Annabel Jones how to knock years off your face with a few clever updates
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Pin it on the pandemic, but ever since the first lockdown came to a close, hair salons have been reporting an increase in “proper haircuts”. Bobs, crops and even soft mullets have been on the up, and not just with trendsetting Gen Z. “We’re getting frequent requests for shorter haircuts from our more mature clients, especially bobs. At first, there was a sense of novelty to holding onto the longer hair they’d grown when salons were closed. Now, there’s an appetite for embracing a totally new look,” says celebrity hairstylist and salon owner George Northwood.
There’s no doubt that a flattering hairstyle can lift one’s cheekbones and chisel a jawline faster than a shot of Botox.
What’s different about hairstyling in 2022 is the bespoke touch. “It’s more modern and youthful to adapt a cut to your hair type and features – no one’s face is the same, therefore no two haircuts should be identical,” says Sam McKnight, who’s been at the forefront of high society hair since the 1980s.
He recently cut actress Jodie Comer’s all-one-length hair: “I razor-cut layers instinctively, concentrating on the areas that frame her face – this adds a certain softness that’s fresh and youthful.”
So, this means finding a hairdresser who knows what suits your hair texture, colour and features. When you’ve found a stylist, a good starting point is a classic shape with ageless proportions. This equates to cutting in layers around your face, whatever length you decide on. “I styled Carla Bruni’s hair for Balmain’s spring/summer catwalk show,” says McKnight. “Her cut is a great example of an over-50s hairstyle with lots of layers, which lends softness to an otherwise unforgiving length that can drag the face down if it has no shape.”
Whether you’re committed to long hair or up for a radical chop, these new season hair updates will flatter at every age.
The choppy bob
There’s no doubt that a classic bob with sharp geometric lines is one of the classiest haircuts of all time. Yet, as McKnight says, you need a certain hair type to pull it off. “Face shape doesn’t matter, nor does age, – the measure of whether you should have a particular hairstyle is down to your hair type.
If you have thick, wavy hair, a traditional bob that’s all one length will look wide and unflattering unless you put a lot of effort into blow-drying and straightening it.” Chopping it into a bob, however, is a game changer. “A chin-grazing bob with natural waves or wispy layers around the face creates a youthfulness and a slightly rebellious edge. When you’re in your 50s and 60s, steer away from haircuts that are ‘too nice’ and add an element of fun by disrupting the shape a bit.” Got fine hair? Incorporating a few highlights or balayage in two or three tones will give thickness and the illusion of texture to limp locks. “Going brighter with age is almost always more flattering than dyeing grey hair dark – don’t be afraid to be bold, either. Pink, for example, lifts the complexion.”
HAIR BY LARRY KING AND SCOTT ADE; MAKE-UP LIZ PUGH AT PREMIER HAIR & MAKEUP; NAILS LUCY TUCKER AT ONE REPRESENTS; MODEL GRACE ANDERSON AT PREMIER
Long and layered
With the exception of Demi Moore, whose one-length hair is impeccably groomed, layers give hair a new lease of life. Especially with long hair, which can appear weighty if not broken up. Layers create bounce and fluidity while adding a sense of fun. The key, says McKnight, is not to be precious about it. “Layers that fall perfectly tend to look prim and old fashioned. Whereas razor-cutting gives an effortless, slightly rebellious edge that softens facial features.” To maintain the look once you leave the hairdresser’s chair, McKnight suggests a light approach to styling. “A modern layered haircut doesn’t require you to do too much. A little styling cream or oil to reduce frizz is all that’s needed – blow-drying hair to within an inch of its life looks outdated.”
Bangs, bobs and layers: Brigitte Bardot, above; Naomi Watts, above left; and Philippine Leroy-Beaulieu, left
The feathered, long fringe A long fringe is an artful way to lift the face and soften the complexion without losing length. “Cutting in shorter pieces that fall around the face is a clever way to add softness,” says McKnight, who points to actresses Jane Birkin and Brigitte Bardot as key examples of women from whom to take inspiration. “A longer fringe creates a framework around the face that works especially well when you put your hair up.” Unlike solid bangs, which can be harsh, the butterfly fringe, as it has become known, gives a nod to a 1970s feather cut that McKnight says is extremely flattering. “Goldie Hawn’s flicky fringe looks as good now as it did then – think Christine McVie from Fleetwood Mac.”
Short with long layers
A blonde crop looks chic and youthful. A short cut also looks good on grey hair, says Sam McKnight. “You need to consider the change in texture that happens when hair goes grey – it won’t necessarily hang the same way it did.”
A short crop that incorporates longer pieces at the front combines the best of both worlds, with the face-sculpting structure of a short cut and the softness of longer tendrils that can be blow-dried with volume and slicked back, or swept loosely to the side. Annette Bening, Cynthia Nixon and Sharon Stone all have age-defying examples of the short/long crop. “A great haircut needs to have multiple styles in one. That versatility is the secret to not getting stuck in a rut.”
Best of both worlds: top, Annette Bening with a short/long crop