The unsung city in Italy’s ‘food valley’
Parma, Bologna and Modena steal the show but Reggio Emilia is where true gourmets head, says Sarah Lane
Central to the series of cities that dot Emilia-Romagna’s “food valley” like a string of pearls, Reggio Emilia is regularly squeezed out of visits to the area by its more celebrated neighbours: Parma to the west, Modena to the east and Bologna just beyond. And while the name of such a prized product as Parmigiano Reggiano is regularly abbreviated, slicing the city out of the picture, and Modena takes all the credit for traditional balsamic vinegar, Reggio Emilia actually makes some of the best of both, along with a series of specialities that include the charcuterie and stuffed pasta that the region does so well. The area’s wines range from impressive contemporary lambruscos to fresh, dry whites and well-structured reds – perfect partners for the local cuisine.
The city of Reggio Emilia itself, cool and collected, displays all the dignity you might expect from the place where Italy’s national flag, the Tricolore, was created. It has a poise and integrity reminiscent of its strong-minded, redheaded 11th-century ruler, Matilde di Canossa. Her legacy to the area includes a series of castles studding the dramatic landscapes of the Apennines, just south of the city. Several of them are open to the public and linked by footpaths threading through the hills – the perfect addition to a long weekend in the city.
WALK UP AN APPETITE Reggio Emilia is central to a recently established walking trail (viamatildica. it) dedicated to one of history’s most extraordinary and influential female figures. Matilde is one of just three women buried at St Peter’s Basilica in the Vatican. While the route stretches from Mantua, her birthplace, to Lucca, in Tuscany, its heart is here among the castles and green hills outside Reggio Emilia.
CASTLES GALORE
The enchanting ruin of Castello di Canossa is recalled in many languages through the saying “the walk to Canossa”, meaning humiliation or penance, in reference to a significant historical episode: for three days in January 1077, emperor Henry IV walked barefoot in the snow to beg Pope Gregory VII, hosted at the castle by Matilde, for absolution following excommunication.
There is no disgrace in choosing to travel in comfort rather than follow in the emperor’s footsteps – this is, after all, Italy’s “motor valley”, with supercars including Ferrari and Lamborghini made nearby. Reggio-based Ruote da Sogno (ruotedasogno.com) has a vast showroom with an incredible collection of prestigious, largely vintage vehicles, all on sale and free to visit.
Whether you walk or drive, another striking castle is Carpinete, Matilde’s favourite for summer, located 2,600ft above sea level. The on-site restaurant (castellodellecarpinete.it) is an atmospheric spot for traditional dishes such as home-made pumpkin pasta.
SAY CHEESE
Along with neighbouring Parma, Reggio is home to one of the world’s favourite cheeses: Parmigiano Reggiano, and some of the tastiest is made here with milk from red-coated Razza Reggiana cows. Seeing the process, unchanged since the cheese was first made at medieval monasteries, is a fascinating experience. Skimmed evening milk is combined with full-fat morning milk in copper-lined tanks, resulting in a pair of 110lb wheels. After maturing for 12 months, each is inspected and branded with the Parmigiano Reggiano logo. For extra endorsement by the Consorzio Vacche Rosse (consorziovaccherosse. it), the cheeses are left to rest for at least an extra 24 months amid strict controls; some are aged further, up to six years.
BALSAMIC BEAUTIES Another exquisite speciality, more commonly associated with nearby Modena than with Reggio, is aceto balsamico tradizionale, the superior PDOcertified version of balsamic vinegar differentiated from everyday balsamico by the word tradizionale. Nothing but grape is used to make it, and it must mature for a minimum of 12 years in batteries of decreasing-sized barrels. Only the official consortium can bottle the finished product in special 100ml bottles labelled according to age: 12, 20 or 25 years. Aromatic and picturesque, many vinegar lofts such as Acetaia Lucenti (acetaialucenti.it) offer tours.
A WEALTH OF WINERIES
The Venturini Baldini winery and resort (venturinibaldini.it) produces Malbo Gentile, a luscious, fruity red, and the fresh, appley white Spergola. While both of these are still, it makes some supreme sparkling wines, including Cadelvento rosé. The estate has attractive accommodation, a restaurant and a footpath to Canossa castle (nine miles).
Another winery that believes strongly in Spergola is Tenuta di Aljano (tenutadialjano.it), which produces excellent still and sparkling versions as well as some interesting lambrusco. This is the heart of lambrusco country and the vines have grown here since ancient Etruscan times. The lambrusco of today is very different from yesteryear, however, and winemakers, such as Rinaldini (rinaldinivini.it), are experimenting widely with the dozen different varieties of lambrusco grape.
Historic lambrusco specialist Medici Ermete (medici.it) makes several excellent versions, including award-winning Concerto (lambrusco Salamino) and Phermento, a cloudy pink Sorbara lambrusco. Sorbara is linked to a bizarre victory for Matilde di Canossa: her soldiers reached the Sorbara battleground to meet the emperor’s army one hot July day in 1084, only to find rival troops sleeping off the effects of the wine, having quenched their thirst rather too eagerly.
DINING OUT
There’s a good choice of local wines at charming Agriturismo Cavazzone (cavazzone.it), which offers traditional dishes along with decent farmhouse accommodation. La Razza (larazza.it), another appealing farmhouse with rooms, also has a gluten-free menu.
For superb food – such as braised duck-breast pasta, and tiramisu with traditional balsamic – and a first-class wine list, book at Ristorante Badessa (ristorantebadessa.it), which is housed in an octagonal former cheese dairy.
The central piazzas of Reggio Emilia itself are filled with pavement tables each evening. Delis such as Antica Salumeria Giorgio Pancaldi serve platters of charcuterie with gnocco fritto (fried doughy pillows), while for erbazzone, Reggio’s Swiss chard-filled speciality pie, try the Melli bakery. The city’s main square is Piazza Prampolini, dominated by the cathedral’s curious unfinished facade and the city hall, where a free museum celebrates Reggio’s role as home to the Italian flag, first adopted by Bologna, Modena, Ferrara and Reggio in 1797.
British Airways (Heathrow; ba.com), easyJet (Gatwick; easyjet.com) and Ryanair (Stansted/Luton; ryanair.com) fly to Bologna, a one-hour drive from Reggio-Emilia. See Telegraph Travel’s guide to hotels in Emilia Romagna at telegraph.co.uk/tt-emiliahotels
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