The under-the-radar perfumes that will have people stopping you in the street
Whether you’re into light, breezy scents or full-on florals, these lesser-known fragrances deserve a little attention. By
We are a nation obsessed with scent: the UK fragrance market is worth £1.8 billion annually. Of course, many of Britain’s bestselling perfumes are the big blockbuster launches from fancy fashion houses or concoctions fronted by popular celebrities. This doesn’t always make for the best buy, as you can probably guess. In fact, some of the most appealing perfumes fly under the radar but have a level of allure no household name can match.
Because who likes to smell like everyone else? Perfume is the ultimate final flourish to your outfit: longer-lasting than a slick of statement lipstick and, if chosen thoughtfully, instantly joyinducing, comforting or sensual. While there are some perfumes you spritz on in the morning that melt into your skin like a daily uniform, others are showstopping, maximalist, olfactory works of art that will have people stopping you in the street asking you what you’ve got on.
They don’t necessarily have to be punchy and overpowering (because too much of a good thing applies to fragrance, too) but they are the sort of scents that leave an addictive trail.
This month, London department store Liberty opened the doors to its new Fragrance Lounge, which is full of headturners. With an aim to democratise the world of perfume – which, let’s face it, can be quite intimidating – it has an inviting space where you can sit down to discover new fragrances at your own pace.
A new perfume is certainly an investment, with many costing more than £100, so it’s pleasing to be able to take your time before you buy. Don’t worry if you can’t get to Liberty, there are lots more new perfume brands that deserve a little attention. Here are a few you may not have yet discovered...
Matiere Premiere Cult scent Vanilla Powder, from £35 for 6ml
All of the perfumes designed by French perfume house Matiere Premiere are based around highlighting single ingredients, such as leather, rose and saffron, in unexpectedly high doses. The brand’s runaway success is Vanilla Powder. While many perfumes containing vanilla smell sugary and unsophisticated, this is anything but. White musk and coconut powder with Madagascan vanilla make for a real show-stopper.
Ffern Cult scent Spring 24, £89 for 32ml
Somerset perfumery Ffern is all about loyalty: subscribe and you will receive its new creation – one of only four a year – as the seasons change. Its latest scent for Spring, launched this week, is based around rhubarb. The scent has all the sour and sweet charm you’d expect from the springtime stems, with added sharpness and warmth from ginger root and grapefruit rind. Consider it an invigorating jolt for the new season.
Perfumer H Cult scent Ink, from £130 for 50ml
One of Britain’s few classically trained perfumers, Lyn Harris is behind many bestsellers. Miller Harris? That was Lyn until she exited 11 years ago. The grassy scent of Sam McKnight’s haircare? That’s Lyn, too. In 2015 she launched the discreet luxury brand Perfumer H. Her creations are unconventional but compelling: the perfume Ink is inspired by the smell of blue ink on white paper, with notes of papyrus, vetiver and cedarwood.
Phlur Cult scent
Missing Person, from £26 for 9.5ml
Inspired by “memories, moments, experiences and feelings”, Phlur is the sort of brand that Gen Z adores. But don’t let that put you off; you will love it too. All of the perfumers behind the label have created some of the most recognisable classics, such as Le Labo Santal 33, Glossier You, and Byredo Gypsy Water. The creamy, white musk of Missing Person is the sort of perfume that smells strangely familiar, like the cosy jumper of a loved one.
‘Perfume is the ultimate finishing flourish to your outfit: instantly joy-inducing’
& Other Stories Cult scent
Solar Essay Perfume Oil, £15 for 6ml
Don’t dismiss this perfume because it’s from a high street clothing brand: & Other Stories’s fragrances are completely underrated and come in at a great price point. If you aren’t a fan of spraying perfume or find them too overpowering, try an oil instead. Solar Essay is the perfect holiday scent – think sun-drenched skin, light wafty kaftans and a whiff of sunscreen. Close your eyes and you’ll be on a beach in Ibiza.
Bleu Nour Cult scent Neon Violette Perfume Oil, £36 for 6ml
Born and raised in Paris, perfumer Nour Ibrahim came to fragrance an unusual way: she has synaesthesia, a rare neurological condition which means people experience things through their senses in different ways. It could mean experiencing colour as a sound or, as in Ibrahim’s case, translating colour into scents. Neon Violette is the brand’s best-seller: a mouthwateringly fruity perfume with notes of orange, black pepper and fig.