Why the Amalfi Coast is at its tranquil best in spring
It’s not just the lack of crowds that makes this refined stretch of coastline loveliest in shoulder season, says Anna Selby
The ruggedly dramatic coastline of Amalfi has long been regarded as among the world’s most beautiful. Mountains tumble down to the sea and churches, multi-domed cathedrals, ruined towers and pastel-coloured villages cling like medieval limpets to their lower reaches. So it comes as no surprise that everyone wants to visit. And therein lies the problem.
In winter, most of its hotels and restaurants close. In summer, the crowds (not to mention the heat) can be overwhelming. You can’t move in the small towns or along the narrow twisting roads between them, especially when the cruise ships line up in nearby Naples and thousands of passengers are disgorged onto buses that take the hairpin bends through the Lattari Mountains Nature Park, making their way down to that delectable coastline.
There is a moment, though, when you can get the place very nearly to yourself. And that time is now.
Amalfi is a town as well as a coastline. From my balcony at the elegant Hotel Santa Caterina, I could look across to the terraces of the pink, cream and ochre houses above the little port, down to the sparkling waters of the Gulf of Salerno and, squeezed into every available space, the orange and, especially, lemon trees, weighed down with fruit at this time of year. Amalfi lemons are huge and highly prized by chefs for their intense flavour. But, then, you would expect the flavours of Amalfi to be as luscious as its coastline. Besides lemons, you’ll find the freshest of seafood, soft mozzarella cheese, the finest pizzas, pastas and risottos, and pastries that are quite irresistible. And, of course, Amalfi is home to that wickedly delicious elixir known as limoncello.
Charming as it is to sample these delicacies at a table on a cobbled street as you watch the world go by, Amalfi is far more than a mere delight for the senses. It has, in fact, an unexpectedly important place in Mediterranean history. Long before Venice reigned supreme, it was a maritime republic. Between the 9th and 11th centuries, it ran the region’s shipping, trading in grain and slaves, silks and timber, as far afield as Egypt and Syria. The resulting wealth built a magnificent cathedral with discernible Arabic and Byzantine influences. They could even afford to buy the relics of St Andrew, who is buried in the fantastically ornate crypt.
At this time of year, it’s easy to get to the nearby towns and villages – no small consideration, as driving times quadruple in summer. The closest is Atrani, a tiny fishing village, but nonetheless with its own clifftop cathedral. Minori is famed for its beautiful sandy beach, backed by a charming promenade. Ravello, up in the hills, has breathtaking views of the coastline, and the Villa Rufolo – a palace that at its height in the 13th century boasted more rooms than days in the year, and gardens so beautiful that Wagner declared them, on a visit in 1880, to be the epitome of “the magical garden of Klingsor”.
The best way to explore the coast, though, with its caves, inlets, secluded beaches and quaysides, is surely by boat. This was, of course, the way the Greeks and Romans would reach the lovely nearby town of Positano – a popular spot in which to holiday in the ancient world. Its archipelago of Li Galli was said to be the home of Homer’s mythical sirens; and one of its islets was purchased by the Ballets Russes dancer Léonide Massine, and was bought by Rudolf Nureyev after his death. Nowadays, it takes just 30 minutes to reach Positano by ferry from Amalfi, and you can sail to Naples, Salerno and Capri, too.
At this time of year, the Mediterranean shimmers in the sunshine, and Amalfi wakes up, refreshed after its short winter nap. The perfect moment, then, to heed that siren call.