The Sunday Telegraph

For a healthy fry-up, consider lard rather than vegetable oil

- By Robert Mendick CHIEF REPORTER

LEADING scientists are warning against the dangers of cooking with vegetable oils – and have suggested frying food in unfashiona­ble lard or butter instead.

Prof Martin Grootveld said his research showed heating sunflower oil and corn oil caused the release of toxic chemicals called aldehydes, which have been linked to cancer and other diseases. Frying a “typical meal of fish and chips” produced up to 200 times more toxic aldehydes than a safe maximum daily intake limit set by the World Health Organisati­on, claimed Prof Grootveld, of De Montfort University in Leicester.

Prof John Stein, a neuroscien­tist at Oxford University, said he had banished sunflower oil and corn oil from his kitchen because he believes they are contributi­ng to a drop in vital omega 3 fatty acids in people’s brains, leading to mental health issues.

COOKING with vegetable oils releases toxic chemicals linked to cancer and other diseases, according to leading scientists, who are now recommendi­ng food be fried in olive oil, coconut oil, butter or even lard.

The results of a series of experiment­s threaten to turn on its head official advice that oils rich in polyunsatu­rated fats – such as corn oil and sunflower oil – are better for the health than the saturated fats in animal products.

Scientists found that heating up vegetable oils led to the release of high concentrat­ions of chemicals called aldehydes, which have been linked to illnesses including cancer, heart disease and dementia.

Martin Grootveld, a professor of bioanalyti­cal chemistry and chemical pathology, said that his research showed “a typical meal of fish and chips”, fried in vegetable oil, contained as much as 100 to 200 times more toxic aldehydes than the safe daily limit set by the World Health Organisati­on.

In contrast, heating up butter, olive oil and lard in tests produced much lower levels of aldehydes. Coconut oil produced the lowest levels of the harmful chemicals.

Concerns over toxic chemicals in heated oils are backed up by separate research from a University of Oxford professor, who claims that the fatty acids in vegetable oils are contributi­ng to other health problems.

Professor John Stein, Oxford’s emeritus professor of neuroscien­ce, said that partly as a result of corn and sunflower oils, “the human brain is changing in a way that is as serious as climate change threatens to be”.

Because vegetable oils are rich in omega 6 acids, they are contributi­ng to a reduction in critical omega 3 fatty acids in the brain by replacing them, he believes.

“If you eat too much corn oil or sunflower oil, the brain is absorbing too much omega 6, and that effectivel­y forces out omega 3,” said Prof Stein. “I believe the lack of omega 3 is a powerful contributo­ry factor to such problems as increasing mental health issues and other problems such as dyslexia.”

He said sunflower oil and corn oil were now banished from his own kitchen, replaced by olive oil and butter.

NHS advice is to replace “foods high in saturated fat with lower-fat versions” and warns against frying food in butter or lard, recommendi­ng instead corn oil, sunflower oil and rapeseed oil. Saturated fats raise cholestero­l levels, increasing the risk of heart disease.

But Prof Grootveld, of De Montfort University in Leicester, who carried out a series of experiment­s, said: “For decades, the authoritie­s have been warning us how bad butter and lard was. But we have found butter is very, very good for frying purposes and so is lard.

“People have been telling us how healthy polyunsatu­rates are in corn oil and sunflower oil. But when you start messing around with them, subjecting them to high amounts of energy in the frying pan or the oven, they undergo a complex series of chemical reactions which results in the accumulati­on of large amounts of toxic compounds.”

The findings are contained in research papers. Prof Grootveld’s team measured levels of “aldehydic lipid oxidation products” (LOPs), produced when oils were heated to varying temperatur­es. The tests suggested coconut oil produces the lowest levels of aldehydes, and three times more aldehydes were produced when heating corn oil and sunflower oil than butter.

The team concluded in one paper last year: “The most obvious solution to the generation of LOPs in culinary oils during frying is to avoid consuming foods fried in PUFA [polyunsatu­rated fatty acid]-rich oils as much as possible.”

Prof Grootveld said: “This major problem has received scant or limited attention from the food industry and health researcher­s.” Evidence of high levels of toxicity from heating oils has been available for many years, he said.

Health concerns linked to the toxic by-products include heart disease; cancer; “malformati­ons” during pregnancy; inflammati­on; risk of ulcers and a rise in blood pressure.

He said the oils when “completely pure [and] authentic … offer no threats to human health” but that “LOPs arising from the frequent and common use of polyunsatu­rated fats” for frying “certainly do so”.

Public Health England says saturated fats, including butter and coconut oil “can be eaten occasional­ly in small amounts as part of a healthy balanced diet”.

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