Power dressing
How to wear a trouser suit
In August 1966, Yves Saint Laurent unveiled his “Le Smoking” to the fashion world in Paris. Adopted by the likes of Catherine Deneuve, Bianca Jagger and Lauren Bacall, the tuxedo suit came to epitomise effortless glamour. Fastforward 50 years and another tailored two-piece has been making waves in the French capital.
When Amber Rudd visited French interior minister Bernard Cazeneuve last week, it wasn’t an impeccably cut tribute to Saint Laurent’s iconic take on workwear that our newly appointed Home Secretary chose. Her somewhat crumpled suit was sadly lacking any kind of je ne sais quoi.
With its slight sheen, too-long trousers and wrinkled material (the consequence of jumping straight from Eurostar to meeting, no doubt), Rudd appeared more Apprentice contestant than chic Parisienne. We can sympathise. When the small details go wrong – be that cut, styling or fit – the effect is more disappointing than a soggy bottom on
Bake Off. The scuffed brogues didn’t help matters, either.
“A well-fitting trouser suit is stylish, comfortable and practical. You can be covered up, look streamlined and elegantly chic,” says Caroline Wolf, a personal stylist who helps professional women to hone their personal style. “The image this photo sends out is probably not what Amber Rudd intended. It looks hurriedly put together and rather masculine,” she analyses.
Of course, we can forgive Rudd this sartorial faux-pas, especially when a crumpled suit never seemed to bother Boris Johnson or Kenneth Clarke. However, it is also true that women in trouser suits are having a moment. Get a tailored duo right and you’ll look polished and powerful. Theresa May is setting an example with her well-fitted pairings. One of the finest looks in her appropriately fashionable wardrobe is a Black Watch tartan suit with highwaisted, wide-legged trousers by Vivienne Westwood, which she chose to kick off her bid for the Tory leadership in June. She wears it with a crisp white shirt and delicate jewellery, creating a professional look with a refreshing dose of personality. In the US, Hillary Clinton is also a long-time devotee of the trouser suit and has nailed the proportions that work for her. Case in point, the white Ralph Lauren outfit which she wore to accept the Democrat presidential nomination in July. Meanwhile, female actresses and celebrities have been favouring Yves Saint Laurent-esque suiting as a cool antidote to frothy gowns all summer. The 43-year-old supermodel Eva Herzigova chose a navy trouser suit with playful red trim for a film premiere this week, Jane Fonda sauntered on to the stage at a recent awards ceremony in a hot pink tuxedo suit, while Cate Blanchett was gorgeously Katharine Hepburn-like in white culottes and matching blazer for a gala at the Old Vic. Victoria Beckham has also carved out a reputation as a tailoring connoisseur. Her latest appearances have almost always featured an idiosyncratic spin on tailoring, be it a waistcoat paired with matching slim, cropped trousers or a grey coat and trousers combination for a stroll through LA’s airport. Unsurprisingly, then, trouser suits were a big theme on the autumn/ winter catwalks; they came in tweed at Balenciaga, velvet at Roksanda and pinstripes at MaxMara. “A trouser suit is a modern way to dress for cocktail events with a masculine twist, but they also make a great investment because you can wear the trousers and jackets separately for so many different types of occasions,” says Natalie Kingham, buying director at Matchesfashion.com.
One label that has recently piqued Kingham’s eye for brilliant tailoring is Racil, founded by Lebanese designer Racil Chalhoub. Her designs combine sober double-breasted jackets in black or navy that would be an asset to any working women’s wardrobe with more experimental, glamorous styles, like the gold brocade suit in her new collection.
“I always loved wearing great jackets but had found it really tricky to find the right trousers, so I set about making suits which had that cool nonchalance to them,” she explains. Her autumn/ winter collection, which has just arrived in stores, is based on menswear from the Twenties. “We work with specialist tailors and use the same fabrics as Savile Row. You really have to make an investment in the materials,” she adds. “You can wear a suit 24/7 if you want to, it’s just about changing the styling. I’ll wear it with loafers and a turtleneck in the day, then swap for