Food on the run

Celebrities have been sighted wearing trainers to restaurants, which means the official fashion rules will follow suit. Pumps are now permissible at some high-end eateries, although owners stress that there must still be a correct “overall” look. What would Basil Fawlty make of it? At least if Basil gets into one of his rages, the trainer-wearing diner can run away fast.

What’s behind this trend? One answer is that so many dine out so frequently nowadays that it has lost its sense of occasion. So if dining at home is now a special treat, perhaps we should dress up for it, as they did in days gone by? White tie for men; evening frocks for ladies. Masks for fun. But diners must be careful if they balance their plate on their lap. The last thing one wants down one’s Chanel couture is a TV dinner.