Scotch whisky guardians roll out the barrel with a twist of tequila

IT IS a tradition dating back hundreds of years that Scotch whisky should be aged in barrels only previously used to mature spirits such as cognac, brandy or sherry. This is after all what gives “the water of life” its unique flavour.

But, in what some purists may regard as sacrilege, a change in industry rules means whisky can now be aged for a period in barrels previously used for other spirits, such as tequila.

In a break with tradition, the Scotch Whisky Association has relaxed the rules governing production to allow tequila barrels – so long as the product does not taste more like the cactusbased Mexican spirit than the Scottish one made from distilled fermented grain mash. It’s a fine line, of course – the taste is determined by how long the whisky matures in a particular barrel – but distillers argue the change will allow them to broaden their product range and appeal to a younger market.

To count as Scotch whisky, the spirit must be distilled in Scotland from water and malted barley and aged in the country for three years in oak casks.

The Scotch Whisky Association (SWA), which enforces how Scotch is made and marketed, has for years required distillers to mature and finish the drink in casks traditionally used by the industry, limiting producers mainly to old sherry, cognac, bourbon or port barrels. Now, it will allow a wider variety of casks, including tequila casks.

The changes came after distillers lobbied the SWA to relax rules to help develop new varieties of the drink. The SWA was initially reluctant but agreed after stipulating that nothing must be done to alter whisky’s traditional taste.

Regardless of the type of cask used, the resulting product must have the traditional colour, taste and aroma characteristics of Scotch whisky.

Alan Park, the SWA’s legal director, said: “If there has been previous use of a cask for maturation, that maturation must have been part of the traditional process for the wine, beer/ale or spirit concerned.”

Karen Betts, the SWA’s chief executive, added: “This change is consistent with Scotch whisky’s heritage and traditions, and strengthens our foundations into the future.”

While the move has been welcomed by distillers, Pernod Ricard SA’s Chivas Brothers Scotch brand said the new rule would allow it to create “new flavour experiences”. Traditionalists are not so sure. Gavin Hewitt, former chief executive of the SWA, told the Wall Street Journal: “Scotch needs to be judged by its colour, taste and tradition. Clearly if you then had a whisky that tasted of tequila, if it used an extequila cask, it would not be Scotch.”

For Scotch whisky to be Scotch it must be distilled in Scotland from water and malted barley, and aged in the country for three years in oak casks previously used to mature spirits such as cognac, brandy or sherry. But a change in rules means it could be distilled in barrels used for other spirits too, including tequila. Frankly, it’s hard to imagine how Scotch – a very mellow taste, to say the least – can remain distinctly Scotch if it has the aroma of a sweaty night out in Cancun, but manufacturers are convinced it will help attract new drinkers.

Variety is the spice of life, however there are warnings from history. Remember New Coke, the ill-fated Eighties attempt to revamp Coca-Cola? The fortunes of Irn-bru, another Scottish power brand, hit with a sugar tax have been mixed: profits do seem to be steady. So long as the option remains for drinking from the old barrels, perhaps the whisky revolution will barely be noticed at all. Nights will remain cold; Scotch will remain warm.