The Sunday Telegraph

Parisian catwalk chic give gives a nod to nostalgia nostal

- By Bethan Holt in Paris

P

BOURGEOIS style i is the designer obsession du jour in Paris, referenced this week by Antho Anthony Vaccarello at Saint Laurent and Olivier Rousteing at Balmain. But o on Friday evening, Celine’s Hedi Sli Slimane reminded us that it was he wh who ushered in this style era (in his second s Celine collection a year ago) in which the epitome of elegan elegance is to dress like the chicest mama maman in St Germain. That is why there h have been so many pussy-bow blouses and tea dresses gracing the rails of Z Zara lately.

The look is eviden evidently the gift which keeps on giving, alth although this collection was a uni unisex offering, with almost as many mal male models.

Slimane refuses to t give comments on his collection­s, b but the dedication of this one “à ma mè mère” suggested the power of personal n nostalgia; born in 1968, he grew up in Paris with his Tunisian father and Italian mother.

Tiered dresses we were shot with Lurex, sumptuous v velvet blazers and cropped jackets wer were sharp and sleek and there were lush lush, twinkling hand-embroidere­d o offerings. And how about a stroll in flat suede over-theknee boots and twee tweed cape, or wafting to cocktails in a leop leopard kaftan?

The show also saw the debut of a new jewellery range range, Les Cristaux – tapping into the m modern obsession with crystals, and th the introducti­on of accessorie­s bearing the original Celine logo, first created in 1966.

Criticismh­as Criticism has bee been levelled at Slimane for his obsession obse with ultra-thin models an and Friday evening’s show was no differe different. Plus ça change, but it does become a distractio­n from the exceptiona­l clot clothes.

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