Ex-Gurkha tames Savage Mountain
One week after his camp was blown off K2, intrepid Nirmal Purja ‘makes the impossible possible’
A TEAM of Nepalese climbers including a former Gurkha soldier has claimed one of mountaineering’s last great prizes by completing the first winter ascent of K2.
Nirmal Purja was one of 10 mountaineers who reached the summit of the world’s second highest mountain soon after 5pm (noon GMT) yesterday.
Their conquest of a peak so deadly it has been nicknamed Savage Mountain was hailed as a demonstration of the prowess of Nepalese climbers who for decades have often been relegated to acting as guides and assistants.
The mountaineers assembled just short of the top and then climbed the final yards together while singing the Nepalese national anthem.
The 8,611m (28,251ft) peak is notorious for its perilous climbing conditions and until yesterday was the only one of 14 worldwide peaks above 8,000m to never be conquered in the winter.
To underline its perils, a Spanish climber called Sergi Mingote was reported to have fallen and died lower down the mountain on the same day.
Mr Purja, a one-time member of the UK’s special forces, said: “Mother Nature always has bigger things to say. Standing on the summit, witness to the sheer force of her extremities, we are proud to have been a part of history for humankind and to show that collaboration, teamwork and a positive mental attitude can push limits to what we feel might be possible.”
Mr Purja’s achievement comes little over a year after he smashed the world record for climbing the 14 tallest peaks in the shortest time, completing the challenge in only 189 days.
Less than a week ago his camp and equipment were swept off the mountain by high winds, prompting him to say he was devastated and would have to reassess his attempt for the top. Yet he vowed to continue.
“What a journey,” Mr Purja said. “I’m humbled to say that as a team, we have summited the magnificent K2 in extreme winter conditions.
He added: “We set out to make the impossible possible and we are honoured to be sharing this moment, not only with the Nepalese climbing community but with communities all across the world.”
Born in the Dhaulagiri region of Nepal and raised in the flatlands rather than mountains, Mr Purja followed in the footsteps of his father and brothers to become a Gurkha in the British Army at the age of 18.
In 2009, he became the first Gurkha to join the elite Special Boat Service.
Three years later, he trekked to Everest base camp as part of a growing fascination with mountaineering, and first climbed Everest in 2016. Dozens of climbers ers in several expeditions s converged on K2 in December cember to attempt the record. ecord. The final push involved nvolved 10 climbers who ho had started in different ent expeditions. They teamed eamed up and set off on a mission to share the glory ory of reaching the top. p.
Some me 86 climbers are reported to have died on the mountain, ntain, which equates to one death in every four successful climbs. Only a handful of winter attempts, when the conditions are pitiless, have been tried. Winds can reach up to 120mph and temperatures can fall to -50C (-58F). Chhang Dawa, an expedition leader, said the climb was “a greatest achievement in the history of mountaineering. This is the good example of team work.” The Alpine Club of Pakistan listed the successful 10 climbers as Nirmal Purja, Gelje Sherpa, Mingma David Sherpa, Mingma G, Sona Sherpa, Mingma Tenzi Sherpa, Pem Chhiri Sherpa, Dawa Temba Sherpa, Kili Pemba Sherpa and Dawa Tenjing Sherpa.