What the experts recommend: vegetarian food
Farmacy 74 Westbourne Grove, London W2 (www.farmacylondon.com) There ought to be ample “comedy mileage” to be derived from a review of Farmacy, says Grace Dent in the London Evening Standard. This is a “veggan” – with eggs – restaurant in Notting Hill that sells “novelty syringes of life-enhancing potions” and “earth bowls” of buckwheat with baba ganoush. It’s owned by Mohamed Al-fayed’s daughter, Camilla, and “caters to people so removed” from earthly folk with nine-to-five jobs “that it may as well be the Mos Eisley cantina in Star Wars”. And yet for all its “wellnessfocused” flummery, I liked it. Farmacy is an attractive space, “capacious, spotless, airy and noisy” with the hum of happy eaters. It serves espresso martinis and “clean cosmos” as well as smoothies and matcha lattes. And my burger of millet, black bean and mushroom was a “proper lunch”, served in a wholewheat bun with goji ketchup, garlic aioli and, importantly, chips. “I’m not saying that Farmacy will float your boat if you’re a strict meat, heavy carbs and knickerbocker glory person” but otherwise, do try it. £69 for a large lunch for two with drinks.
Wild Thyme The Old Fire Station Stables, Labour in Vain Yard, Norwich (01603765562) An odd paradox of meat-free cookery is that “the most delicious veggie dishes are often to be found in avowedly carnivorous restaurants”, says Keith Miller in The Daily Telegraph. I’m thinking of the “fishfragrant” aubergine at A. Wong, and the cauliflower shawarma at Berber & Q (both in London); or pasta with porcini in Tuscany (to be followed, most likely, by a thick steak). Compared with such joys, how does Wild Thyme measure up? “Pretty well, actually.” At this “friendly” Norwich restaurant, which occupies a light-filled space in a “lovely” former stables – the “flavours are robust” and the “textures varied”. I went for two “ersatz carno-creations” – a brace of jackfruit “crab” cakes and a smoky butternut squash, black bean and quinoa burger. Both were good, although I preferred the former, which was “zesty, moist and vivid with spice”. My friend enjoyed her “rich and light” whipped feta starter and the sweet potato dauphinoise which succeeded it. Wild Thyme is “fresh, punchy and even mildly, if not wildly, original”. Lunch for two £65.
Veggie Pret 35 Broadwick Street, London W1 (020-7932 5274)
If you doubted that veggie had gone mainstream, consider the fact that Pret A Manger’s experimental veggie-only branch has proved such a success it’s going permanent, says Chloe Pantazi in Business Insider. The Veggie Pret “pop-up” in London’s Soho opened in June and was supposed to last a month, but sales were so good, that it has been made a permanent fixture – and more vegetarian branches are planned. I tried it out earlier in the summer, and overall I was pretty impressed. The spinach, avocado, pomegranate, and cashew nuts in the Crunchy Raw Rainbow Superbowl were surprisingly “delicious together” with a “good balance of crunchy and smooth”. For my main, I devoured a hearty kale and cauliflower macaroni cheese. Given that I don’t usually like kale or cauliflower, this has to be considered a hit – although I was left wondering how great it might taste with bacon.