What the experts recommend
Karma Great Western Hotel, Cowley Bridge Road, Exeter (01392-661212)
This Indian restaurant – located in a “distinctly unprepossessing” hotel close to Exeter St. Davids station – makes a point of doing things differently, says William Sitwell in The Daily Telegraph. Unlike at many curry houses, their chicken is from young birds, not “old egg-layers”, and they serve a number of Manchurian dishes, in which Chinese influences have been adapted to Indian traditions. Such effort is reflected in the quality of the food: “every little ingredient – from green chilli to coriander leaf – seemed to proudly pop its head over the parapet”. We kicked off with Manchurian king prawns that were “bursting with fresh and zesty flavour”. Then came “heavenly” baigan bhartha
(smoky aubergine), an “epic” daal, and the “best” chicken jalfrezi I’ve ever tasted. After our meal, in the bar area, the chef appeared with plates of onion bhaji and tandoori chicken, and began handing them round to drinkers. “Blissful.” Dinner for two £55, excluding drinks and service.
Muse 38 Groom Place, London SW1 (020-3301 2903)
This Belgravia restaurant, which opened just weeks ago, has already been described as “possibly the most pretentious ever”, says David Sexton in the London Evening Standard. Calling itself a gastronomic “autobiography”, its menu features dishes with names like “Conquering the ‘Beech Tree’” and “The essence”, all inspired by “pivotal” moments in the life of chef Tom Aikens. But here’s the thing: Muse is “ravishing”. In the “intimate and relaxed” dining room, we were presented with a sequence of “delectable” dishes that were executed with “revelatory finesse”. “Sea Lavender” was an oriental take on mackerel, the fish “accompanied by daikon both pickled and poached”; “The essence” consisted of “three kinds of beetroot, with fermented cucumber, blood orange, peppery nasturtium leaves and pine salt”. As is seldom the case after eating six courses, we left “feeling well, exhilarated even” – and with our lunch working out at around £130 per head, it didn’t even seem “so expensive”. What an “absolute treat”. Three course lunch menu, £50; six course tasting menu, £95.
Where to eat in... Belfast
Having worked at various Michelinstarred restaurants in London, Brian Donnelly – a County Tyrone native – relocated to Belfast and opened the awardwinning Bia Rebel Ramen with his partner Jenny Holland. The food in Belfast is now truly international, Donnelly wrote in The Daily Telegraph. “We’re seeing an explosion of taco culture here, the coffee is fantastic and there are guys like us doing ramen.” For a “bright and buzzy” atmosphere, he suggests Yügo on Wellington Street, an Asian-fusion place with “super flavours”. Noble on Church Road serves “rustic French-English food” executed to an “extremely accomplished level”. If you want to sit and do some work, try Lazy Claire Patisserie on Castlereagh Street: they “make their own pastries, like chocolate eclairs and ParisBrests”. Bittles Bar on Musgrave Channel Road is a “no-nonsense bar with an amazing range of Irish whiskey”. And it’s worth heading just out of town to Indie Füde on Castle Street, where you’ll find a range of top-quality produce. “You can’t walk out and not spend £50 – it’s a dangerous place for a foodie.”