This week’s dream: a trek through the mountains of Wyoming
Few views of the American wilderness are as spectacular, or as well known, as that of the jagged peaks of the Teton range rising – in the middle distance – sheer above the plains of northwestern Wyoming, says Stephen Hiltner in The New York Times. And you would be hard pushed to find in the US (which reopens to travellers from the UK in November) a multi-day hike as rewarding as the Teton Crest Trail – a five-day ramble across the mountains’ western flanks that takes in dense forests, glaciers and seemingly limitless alpine scenery. Other parts of the Grand Teton National Park have been “inundated” by ever-growing numbers of visitors, who are drawn to various beauty spots that are now routinely promoted on social media. But here, you’ll most likely encounter only a handful of other hikers. There are, however, wildflowers in abundance, and there is also the chance of spotting wildlife including moose, marmots and grizzly bears.
Begin your trip with a visit to the gigantic fumaroles and geysers of the neighbouring Yellowstone National Park, which encompasses the largest volcanic system in North America. Then drive 50 miles south to Phillips Pass, and walk the trail northwards to its terminus at Paintbrush Canyon. Be warned that securing camping permits for the Grand Teton National Park in advance is a competitive process. However, some are given out on a first-come-first-served basis at the park’s visitors’ centres every morning. To be sure of success, you will need to queue from 6am. Should you fail, bear in mind that you can camp without a permit in the stretches of the trail that fall in Bridger-Teton and CaribouTarghee National Forest.
The tallest summit in the range – Grand Teton – is 4,197 metres high, and the trail itself rarely dips below 2,500 metres, rising to a high point of 3,267 metres at Paintbrush Divide, from which there are “breathtaking” 360° views. There are steep climbs along the way, and the scenery is marvellously varied, including the “eerily barren” landscape around Hurricane Pass, and the “pristine isolation” of Lake Solitude – a place of wondrous serenity where you might well find yourself alone. If you can, get there for sunrise. See nps.gov for information.