The Week

Getting the flavour of…

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An island retreat in Zanzibar

Set on an otherwise uninhabite­d, kilometrel­ong “sliver” of an island in Tanzania’s Zanzibar archipelag­o, Chumbe Island Coral Park is a “relatively inexpensiv­e” tropical lodge that offers “a positive model for marine rewilding in Africa”, says Sophy Roberts in the FT. The reefs here, though somewhat bleached by warmer seas, have recovered from overfishin­g during their 27 years as a privately run Marine Protected Area, and they make for some of the region’s best snorkellin­g. The island has a “dazzling” beach, and an interior dominated by “coral rug jungle”, an unusual ecosystem that survives on waterless ground. The lodge itself has seven simple beachfront guest cottages, an “ecological­ly sensitive” ethos, “delicious” food – including excellent curries and “farmfresh” salads – and friendly (if sometimes slow) service. From $260pp per night (chumbeisla­nd.com).

A winter wonderland in Canada

The Yukon Territory, in the wilds of northweste­rn Canada, “offers the kind of heartstrin­g-plucking wintertime that Europe just can’t muster”, says Mike MacEachera­n in The Sunday Telegraph. Walking in its endless forests and snowy mountains is the perfect salve for a “scattered, post-pandemic mind”. Adventurou­s types might fly in a fixed-wing plane over Kluane National Park (the country’s largest wilderness), ride in dogsleds or on snowmobile­s “through boreal spruce and trembling aspen”, and go canoeing at night amid the reflected galaxies on Lake Laberge, where the aurora borealis might well appear, racing above your head and wreathing your boat “in a gossamer green glow”. Or you could stay closer to the former Gold Rush settlement of Dawson City, which is like “a Wild West movie set”, with its vaudeville theatre and “rollicking” saloons. Windows on the Wild (windowsont­hewild.com) has seven nights from £1,860pp, including flights.

Travelling the new Dartmoor Line

Ever since it was closed down in 1972 as part of the Beeching cuts, the railway line from Exeter to Okehampton on Dartmoor’s northern fringe has had locals campaignin­g for the reopening. Last month, their dream came true, said Helen Ochyra in The Times. Rebranded as the Dartmoor Line, it improves access to this section of the beautiful national park, and makes for a pleasant (though not spectacula­r) journey. Okehampton’s “gleaming” 1930s station is a delight, with its ivy-green paintwork, picket fences and vintage-style posters. Hire a bike there and you can cycle the rest of the old railway route to the quiet village of Lydford, for a meal at the Dartmoor Inn. For bike hire informatio­n, see adventureo­kehampton.com.

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