Getting the flavour of…
Finding peace on Patmos
The Greek island of Patmos has long been a place of “spiritual solace”, says Rachel Howard in House & Garden. It was here, most likely, that Saint John “rattled off” the Book of Revelation, and in the 11th century a Byzantine emperor bequeathed the whole place to monks. These days, it’s a glamorous party spot in high season, popular with “aristocrats, interior designers, fashion editors and their muses”. But it has not been ruined by development, and in spring or autumn it is very peaceful. Stay at Pagostas, a small guesthouse with “spare but richly textured” interiors, in the island’s labyrinthine old town. Strike out on “long walks to remote hermitages”, or for “rousing dips in empty coves”. Visit pagostas.com and walkinginpatmos.com for more information.
Living it up in Porto
“If you can’t feel pleased with your lot in Porto, then something’s amiss,” says Nick Hammond in The Daily Telegraph. Portugal’s second city is a “heady delight” of fabulous wines, great food, churches, towers and townhouses “stacked high” above the Douro River. A brief epicurean break there should naturally involve plenty of port, the fortified wine to which the city gave its name. Cockburn’s and Graham’s are among the venerable houses offering tours and tastings, and the latter’s restaurant, Vinum, can also be heartily recommended. For good seafood in “homely” surroundings, try O Gaveto in Matosinhos, and the “tiny, wonderful” Taberna dos Mercadores. And be sure to visit some of the nearby vineyards of the Douro Valley, such as the “Eden-like” Quinta do Vesúvio, and the Quinta do Bomfim, whose restaurant is overseen by the Michelinstarred chef Pedro Lemos.
A fort of one’s own in Devon
Like many Landmark Trust properties, Crownhill Fort is a great place to indulge in a little “historical cosplay”, at least in imagination, says Oliver Smith in The Times. Built by the Victorians to defend Plymouth against a landward attack, it sits amid the city’s northern suburbs today, but it is so “vast” that, once inside, it’s easy to forget about the B&Q and dual carriageway nearby. The former officers’ quarters are a “cosy and characterful” family holiday let, with a “grand” kitchen and big bedrooms hung with portraits of “mutton-chopped” sailors. All the delights of Devon lie within easy reach, but there’s also plenty to discover in the fort itself, including lots of vintage artillery (connoisseurs will appreciate the “unique Moncrieff ‘disappearing’ gun”), and a huge network of tunnels where bats roost amid “yet more weaponry”. Four nights’ self-catering for eight costs from £592 (landmarktrust.org.uk).