Early 911s: 911T
The 911T is your entrylevel gateway to the world of the early 911, but what exactly is the model, and what is it like to drive?
The first Touring 911 offers a great-value foray into early classic ownership. Here’s how it evolved through the pre-impact bumper years
Tmosthe 911 has been one of the world’s
prestigious sports cars for almost 60 years, but even in the early days Porsche recognised the importance of broadening the model’s appeal. Equally, it knew that being able to enjoy the Neunelfer’s performance and handling agility, whilst taking a more relaxed approach to the driving experience, weren’t mutually exclusive positions. The result was the Touring, or 911T. Cheaper and more accessible, Porsche’s forward-thinking approach is borne out by the impressive production numbers; it was by far the most numerous variant, with around three times as many 2.4s shifted compared to the S. And let’s not forget sporting pedigree, a T claiming Porsche’s first Monte Carlo Rally victory in 1968.
The first T would arrive as part of the A-series models in late-1967, and while it shared a 2.0-litre flat six with its range mates it would be of a simpler design. For example, cast iron was used for the cylinder heads (cheaper than the finned-alloy
Biral ones of more powerful models) and rockers, camshafts were less peaky and the crankshaft was cheaper and used no counterweights. Together with a compression ratio of 8.6:1 (it was 9.8:1 for the S) and triple-choke Weber carburettors instead of fuel injection, the result was 110hp and 158Nm of torque, the former down 30hp on the E and a notable 60hp on the S. Naturally, outright performance suffered with the 0-62mph sprint taking almost two seconds longer than the S, but as most will know enjoying a 911 is rarely about bare statistics. Simplicity was maintained with a four-speed gearbox, solid disc brakes (vented with the Sportomatic ‘box) and no anti-roll bars.
Performance would improve with the advent of the 2.2-litre engine which, in the T, delivered
125hp and more torque resulting in a 0-62mph time only around a second shy of the S. Porsche also ditched the expensive, albeit more tuneable, Weber carburettors for a pair of triple-choke Zenith items. A five-speed gearbox could be had, though, as could the semi-auto Sportomatic transmission, and stopping power was improved with the fitting of the ventilated disc brakes from the range-topping S, although calipers were of cast iron rather than aluminium.
Now a firm favourite in the 911 range, the T continued to be offered with the arrival of the
2.4-litre engine in the E-series. A lower compression ratio and the Zenith 40 TIN carburettors remained, although it shared the same crank as other models along with revised cam profiles over the 2.2 and oil cooling jets for the pistons. Performance was notably improved thanks to outputs of 130hp and 197Nm of torque, the latter produced at a less frantic 4,000rpm (some 1,200rpm lower than the peak for the S). The result was decent mid-range shove and flexibility, and while that suited many buyers there was no need for them to be too entry-level about their choice of 911; they could opt for a five-speed manual or Sportomatic gearbox (the latter an earlier unit rather than the stronger version now fitted to the S) and limited-slip differential, and add back the anti-roll bars that were still missing from the standard specification. By the T’s final incarnation in 1973 little had changed, although cars bound for the US had by now been fitted with fuel injection as the Zenith carbs couldn’t meet emissions requirements; a higher 140hp was the bonus.
Mechanically, then, it was a broadly simpler and cheaper package, although delving into the options
“You might be paying half what you would for an S, but you’re certainly getting more than half the driving experience”
list could claw back some of the ground lost to more powerful models. And as for appearance, both Coupe and Targa were available but there was little to demonstrate that you’d chosen the entry-level 911. Earlier models got a silver rather than gold-coloured Porsche badge, and although steel wheels of modest 5.5-inch width were standard, plenty of buyers chose the Fuchs alloy wheel option. And while Porsche saved money by using steel rather than aluminium for some parts – the front luggage compartment lid and sections of the bumpers, for example – and deleting the bumper over-riders, these were minor changes. And where the S got a front air-dam it was simply a case of ticking the relevant option box to add this to a T. Head inside and the entry-level model was denoted by a few cheaper materials and a slightly less generous standard specification, such as manual windows, a plastic rather than leathercovered steering wheel rim, cheaper carpet material and no oil level/pressure/temperature dial that you’d have found on an S. But with access to the full range of options it was easy enough to specify your 911T to a level where essentially only output and all-out performance distinguished it from the more expensive models.
The current market
According to Suffolk-based specialist, Paul Stephens, there’s a good market for these cars and it’s one that, price-wise, has remained steady over the last few years. That looks unlikely to change in the short to medium term, making a T a stable place to put your money. As for those prices, he points out that exceptional cars in right-hand drive could fetch up to £125,000 (there’s a notable premium over lefthand drive cars), and that there’s not a great deal of variation between engine sizes. It normally comes down to buyer preference, although with the 2.0, the rarer version in terms of production numbers, that’s something that’s likely to keep values firm. Stephens adds that finding examples priced from £60,00080,000 isn’t difficult but warns that they could be really nice or ‘horrible’. A T can be a relatively cheap way into a 911 of this age, but a lot of care is needed to sort those with potential from basket cases requiring hugely expensive restoration. Very much a case of caveat emptor, then. Other valuation sources we’ve consulted place reasonable ones around the £45,000-50,000 mark, with the very best at £85,000, so there’s clearly some variation in values. It only adds to the need for caution before taking the plunge.
But what is crystal clear is the difference in price between a T and the more powerful and desirable S models. No matter what the engine size, you’re looking at paying more than twice as much for the latter, while an E is also worth notably more, although prices for those are closer to the T. It certainly illustrates why the model we’re exploring here makes for such a tempting proposition, but one that should still be approached with suitable levels of caution.
But buy well and the steady market for these cars should provide a degree of confidence.
What’s the driving experience like?
As Paul Stephens says, you might be paying half what you would for an S, but you’re certainly getting more than half the driving experience. That sums up the position of the T rather well. Setting aside the matter of ultimate performance, you’ll be getting a 911 that’s visually similar and one that offers all the noise and
charm of its more expensive, quicker siblings, and there are plenty of buyers for which such a car will be perfect. Yes, there’s a lack of outright power and a good S is magical to drive, but it needs to be worked harder to deliver the rewards, so it’s a matter of deciding whether that’s something you want or need. When we pitted the 2.4T against the E and S back in Issue 161 we highlighted the willing engine and razor-sharp throttle response, and combined with the same delicious levels of feedback and agility shared with the more powerful variants, it’s certainly no poor relation. Given such a wide range of attributes, bare performance statistics are never the best criteria on which to judge a 911 and you’ll certainly not feel short-changed with the model here.
Buying one
Neunelfers of this vintage fall into three main categories: highly original, untouched examples; those that have been restored; and those that will almost certainly be in need of restoration to one degree or another. The former will always be the most sought after and fetch the highest prices, but while seemingly ideal on the surface there are traps awaiting the unwary. Establishing the provenance and authenticity of cars in this category is crucial, so engage the services of a specialist who can help decipher the paperwork and history.
Those are points worth reiterating when considering the purchase of any T, especially when it comes to the matter of restoration and, more specifically, the spectre of cost. As Paul Stephens is quick to point out, restoring a bad one could easily cost £100k. Corrosion can occur in all of the usual 911 trouble-spots such as wings, sills, floors, door pillars and kidney bowls, plus there’s the risk of having to correct previous bodges. With some panels costing in excess of £1,000 and the many hours required to do the job properly, it’s easy to see how restoration bills can spiral. It’s worth adding that the quality of work is crucial when it comes to maintaining values, and while we’ve tried to avoid ‘get it inspected’ generalisations, it really does need an expert eye to ensure that the parts used and the way they’ve been put together are correct.
Authenticity matters with 911s of this age. Mechanically, you’ll need to budget up to £20k and
£5k respectively if the engine and gearbox require complete overhaul, and it’s important the work is done by someone who knows these cars; being the cheaper model, it’s possible that modifications or non-original parts were part of previous re-builds. Even sound flat sixes can leak a little oil but it shouldn’t be excessive, and while the T avoids the complication of fuel injection, poor running could point to carburettors in need of an overhaul.
Specialists Autofarm point out that debris from the fuel tank, or neglected fuel filters, cause problems; inserting additional, clear-cased filters in the feed and return pipes is useful in spotting any issues. As for areas such as brakes and suspension, regular exercise is best and they’ll mainly need checking for corrosion and perished components. Lastly there’s the cabin, which appears simple but can easily swallow a few thousand pounds if refurbishment is needed. The Porsche specialist, Philip Raby, also highlights the need to ensure that the interior is correctly trimmed for a T of its vintage. It’s not unusual for parts to get swapped over the years, and if you value absolute originality this is where engaging the services of an expert pays dividends.