CULI­NARY ODYSSEYS

Mov­ing away from home was the start of a new cre­ative chap­ter for these ad­ven­tur­ous chefs

Town & Country (UK) - - CONTENTS — SUMMER 2018 -

Savour gas­tro­nomic jour­neys, from Pad­stow to Provence

SEA CHANGE

Prawn on the Lawn’s Rick and Katie Too­good left their Is­ling­ton restau­rant to be closer to the source of their pro­duce in Pad­stow The Prawn on the Lawn story could eas­ily have started and ended in Lon­don. Es­tab­lished in 2013, Rick and Katie Too­good’s Is­ling­ton-based fish­mon­ger’s, where cus­tomers were en­cour­aged to sit in and en­joy a glass of wine with seafood from the counter, at­tracted crit­i­cal ac­claim and soon ex­panded into a 35-seater restau­rant. At the same time, the cou­ple were reg­u­larly trav­el­ling to Corn­wall to meet their sup­pli­ers; dur­ing a visit to Pad­stow, they spot­ted an op­por­tu­nity to open a sec­ond site where they could ex­pand their culi­nary hori­zons. They haven’t looked back since mov­ing there per­ma­nently in 2015. ‘Here, we can change our menu up to five times a day de­pend­ing on what the fish­er­men bring in,’ ex­plains Katie. ‘That keeps us think­ing cre­atively.’ So does the op­por­tu­nity to serve hot food, which they hadn’t been li­censed to do in Is­ling­ton. ‘Now we can bake our crab with, say, a lime and co­rian­der but­ter in­stead of just putting it on ice, and we can add a tem­pura-style bat­ter to oys­ters grown a stone’s throw from the restau­rant,’ says Rick. On sum­mer evenings, the pair love head­ing down to the beach with a pic­nic ham­per packed with their beet­root-cured salmon, smoked-had­dock Scotch eggs – ‘a clas­sic with a twist’ – and a well­matched lo­cal beer such as Pad­stow Brewing Com­pany’s Lob­ster Tale. ‘Prawn on the Lawn: Fish and Seafood to Share’ by Rick and Katie Too­good (£18.99, Pavil­ion Books) is out now.

BUTTERFLIED SAR­DINES WITH MANGO SALSA

IN­GRE­DI­ENTS 12 sar­dines, butterflied (ask your fish­mon­ger to do this) Olive oil, for driz­zling Sea salt and freshly ground black pep­per ½ mango, peeled, stoned and cubed ½ small red onion, finely diced 1 fresh red chilli, de­seeded and finely sliced A small bunch of co­rian­der, roughly chopped, with some leaves re­served for gar­nish Juice of 1 lime

METHOD

Place the sar­dines on a bak­ing tray, skin-side up, driz­zle with olive oil and sea­son. Mix the mango, red onion, chilli, co­rian­der and lime juice to­gether with a lit­tle oil. Set aside. Heat some oil in a non-stick fry­ing pan over a medium-high heat. Place the butterflied sar­dines into the pan, skin-side down. The meat of the fish will grad­u­ally change colour from a pink­ish-red to an opaque white. When it gets half­way up the side of the fish, flip the sar­dines over and cook for a fur­ther 30 sec­onds. Trans­fer to a serv­ing plate, spoon on a pile of the mango salsa and gar­nish with the co­rian­der leaves.

prawn on the lawn’s seafood dishes. be­low left: katie and rick too­good

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