WARM CLIMES, HOT SCENTS

Town & Country (UK) - - BEAUTY -

Choos­ing the right sum­mer scent is as much to do with where you’ll be wear­ing it, and even the oc­ca­sion, as any­thing else. ‘There are so many deep, dark scents, which I wear in winter, but if I were to wheel them out in sum­mer it would be like dress­ing in black – they’re op­pres­sive for a rea­son,’ says Jo Fair­ley, the co-founder of the Per­fume So­ci­ety. ‘Fra­grance is about con­text as well as tem­per­a­ture.’

For the ex­treme heat of the Mid­dle East, Fair­ley favours Fran­cis Kurkd­jian’s Oud Silk Mood, which suits ex­otic climes with its notes of Lao­tian oud and Moroc­can camomile, ren­dered exquisitely fem­i­nine with the ad­di­tion of Ital­ian berg­amot and Bul­gar­ian roses. She also loves Sana Jardin’s Tiger By Her Side, which, apart from hav­ing one of the best names ever, has an op­u­lence that works well in a hot coun­try, thanks to Moroc­can roses, am­ber and patchouli, but might not be so per­fectly matched to a patchy English sum­mer.

You may have to be pre­pared to throw caution to the wind and take some risks with your choice. ‘Sum­mer is the right time to wear bright colours, and ac­cept more lib­eral man­ners,’ says Clara Mol­loy, the co-founder of the fra­grance com­pany Memo. First es­tab­lish what you’re not pre­pared to give up. ‘If I’m not wear­ing a vanilla at some point dur­ing the sum­mer, then there has been no sum­mer,’ says Mol­loy. ‘I have to swim in the sea once, be bit­ten by a mosquito once and feel a warm, so­phis­ti­cated vanilla on my skin, to re­ally en­joy the sea­son.’ To this end, Memo’s new­est fra­grance Ta­marindo is a fun play on pineap­ple, un­der­lined by jas­mine and a very beau­ti­ful vanilla. In a sim­i­lar vein is Jo Malone Lon­don’s Trop­i­cal Che­r­i­moya Cologne, a creamy tonka bean, which is like a very slightly spicy vanilla com­bined with pear and pas­sion­flower. In­flu­enced by trav­els around Brazil, the fra­grance has a nat­u­ral ex­u­ber­ance to it that will have you danc­ing – if not at Rio’s car­ni­val it­self, then at least on the ta­bles at the pub in sunny Corn­wall.

There are those, of course, who be­lieve that the sun and eau de par­fum shouldn’t mix at all, be­cause of the risk of stain­ing the skin (which is why I rec­om­mend keep­ing it to your wrists dur­ing the day). Look no fur­ther than Buly 1803’s Eau Triple range, which calls it­self the first water-based per­fume for the skin – in par­tic­u­lar, Mex­i­can Tuberose, which teams that heady white flower with spicy clove. Mean­while, for those balmy evenings, Mai­son Trudon’s Bruma is like a ray of moon­light pierc­ing a for­est glade with a depth pro­vided by ve­tiver, tonka bean, vi­o­lets and jas­mine sam­bac. ‘There are no set rules to me,’ says Tiffany Jeans, the founder of Cu­rio Noir, a fra­grance house based in New Zealand. Her To­bacco Night is def­i­nitely an al­ter­na­tive to stale ideas of what con­sti­tutes sum­mer fresh­ness: an in­trigu­ing com­bi­na­tion of sage, co­rian­der and dried to­bacco leaves along with am­ber, musk and el­emi (a bit like pine-trees but fresher). ‘Fra­grance is like fash­ion – it’s such a per­sonal way to ex­press one’s self. And trans­lat­ing a sum­mery smell can be any­thing that feels right to you.’

mai­son trudon bruma, £165 for 100ml at har­vey nichols

parterre root of all good­ness, £95 for 50ml

cu­rio noir to­bacco night, £150 for 50ml

her­mès eau de cit­ron noir, £77 for 100ml

sana jardin tiger by her side, £180 for 100ml

ac­qua di parma blu mediter­ra­neo chinotto di lig­uria, £66 for 75ml

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