Get painting while the sun shines
AS WE finally turn the corner into what will hopefully be the summer holidays with some better and more predictable weather on the way, it’s a great time to get those pressing jobs done on the boat.
One job that many undertake is painting of the steel cabin shell. This can, in the short term, really brighten up a vessel and make a massive instant difference. It can also add some significant value if undertaken with care; however, if not done correctly it can cause a number of long-term issues that can be detrimental to the vessel’s value and presentation.
My father had a great motto, ‘hurry slowly’, in other words when painting do it well but don’t rush it. When surveying vessels I regularly find issues where it appears owners have got up one morning with a can of paint and just started painting the topsides with absolutely no preparation.
While initally the job can look just the same, in time the coatings will fail and can trap water in areas around fittings, causing significant corrosion.
Here’s a few tips for making the job last well. No matter what you plan to paint and, to a point, what make of paint you use, in every case preparation is essential.
Obviously cleaning down the exisiting paint coatings is a basic task, while the appropriate keying of the surfaces by lightly sanding etc., is also essential.
Deciding if the existing coating has suitable adhesion and is okay to over paint can be a little harder but there are clues to look out for. Is corrosion breaking through the existing coatings? Look around deck fittings etc., is the paint flaking? This can be from when previously painted without proper preparation being undertaken, resulting in the coating virtually peeling off.
If it’s a ‘yes’ to either of these then you may need to strip back to the bare metal plating. At that point it is essential that the metal is spotlessly clean and well primed. Any preparation is almost more important than what make of product coating you buy, so take your time.
Clean surfaces
Most professional painters would remove as many fittings as possible and make sure the surfaces underneath are clean and corrosion-free; that would include windows, dome vents, fender eyes etc.
There are good reasons for this; items like windows are mostly made from differing materials and will, if the sealant is not maintained, allow corrosion under the returns. Again, the fastenings will also start to fail in time so regular replacement at the same time is quite a good move. This principle is the same for dome vents, chimney stacks etc., this for amateur maintenance is not always easy and needs to be weighed up.
So look for the start of corrosion, working out from under fittings before repainting. If there are indications of corrosion then honestly they should be removed and deep cleaned and appropriately primed. If you aren’t feeling confident and the surfaces around the fittings look okay then you may be all right to use a good quality masking tape around the fittings.
For most owners, painting outside is never ideal and picking a good week of weather for preparation and repainting in the UK can be a bit of a game of Russian roulette! I’ve often tried a guideline of watching the weather forecast a few days before and only start painting when the humidity in the air is low, there is no chance of rain, the air is warm and the surface is dry.
Now that may sound obvious but at this time of year would mean not to start painting outside till about 9.30am and stopping before 2pm as surfaces will start to cool and attract evening dew.
Product advice
Choice of paint is again important but most companies’ quality is very good these days with ISO specifications they have to comply with. All companies have clear step-by-step methods of coating and advice on use and correct methods of safely using the product.
Application with a roller is much quicker than by brush but it is important that the thickness of the paint is correct. If using a brush, an old tip has been to use a brush you feel confident with and has been broken in (used before so hopefully all the loose hairs are gone).
Again when surveying I’ve seen craft that have been painted and the coating is so thin it’s really patchy; likewise too much also can ruin a finish with massive amounts of paint runs. Most professionals will often spray coats on, but that isn’t going to happen outside.
I’ve seen some very good handpainted finishes achieved by yards and DIY by carefully laying off of the final finish. In most cases that would be by brushing from gunwhale to top of side shell in one stroke (vertically, not horizontally!). If painting the toe rail sides don’t forgot to add some sort of non-slip finish; silver sand or crushed walnut both work really well.
Painting of the topsides should last around five years, if done well. If basic preparation isn’t done I can assure you that you will be lucky to get it to last a year in our changeable weather.
Feel free to search my YouTube posts on paint at Ben Sutcliffe Marine where you will find loads of useful tips that I’ve already posted.
Ben Sutcliffe-Davies celebrated 40 years in the marine industry in September 2018. He started boat building with his father and uncle and initially built wooden craft; over time he has also built craft in GRP, steel and aluminium. He has been a marine surveyor for more than 20 years and is now a full member of the Yacht Designers and Surveyors Association (YDSA) as well as of British Marine and the Inland Boat Building Association.