July 2022 Walking the Exeter Ship Canal
THE five-and-a-half-mile canal begins its journey at the historic Exeter Canal Basin, just a 10-minute walk from Exeter Cathedral in glorious South Devon.
It is perfect for a gentle afternoon stroll and there is also the option to walk back on the opposite side of the canal for a fine circular walk. The western path is easiest underfoot, as the east bank can be overgrown in parts during summer but it is possible to switch sides as a number of bridges span the canal.
Cycling the route is also a popular activity. At the end of the canal at Turf Locks, why not take a ferry to Topsham (check timetables) and then return to Exeter by train (two services per hour).
The eastern canal bank sits on a finger of land that separates the canal from the River Exe until its southern end at Turf Locks. This side is rougher underfoot at times, but perfectly walkable.
Nestled alongside the River Exe, this fascinating waterway opened in 1566 and was the first canal to be built in Britain since Roman times. Its purpose was to connect Exeter to the sea for international trade. Consequently, it is much deeper and wider than many inland waterways.
These days the canal is used typically by smaller craft such as powered boats, kayaks and paddleboards although larger vessels are not uncommon. For its entire duration, this unique, council-run waterway is sandwiched between the main railway line from Exeter to Penzance and the Exe. There are fine views of the small historic town of Topsham to enjoy towards the latter part of the canal.
The attractive basin, which has a good choice of food and drink outlets, is a great place to start our walk. Just beyond it, the Exe merges with the canal at King’s Arms sluice, which regulates the flow of water to the canal. Close by is an unmistakably large, red and white painted buoy.
We are soon at the linear Riverside Valley Park managed by Devon Wildlife Trust. It is well worth a look. One mile into the walk, the recently refurbished swing bridge at Salmonpool is passed. A further half a mile away is Double Locks. Located here is the aptly named Double Locks pub and for those who want a shorter walk this makes a good stopping point (a seasonal ferry to Exeter is available).
Two miles into our walk, Bridge Road (A379 bypass) is reached. Here the remarkable lift and swing bridges span the road. Unsurprisingly given its importance to nature conservation, the towpath is now part of an SSSI site.
Betwixt the canal and estuary on the east bank is Old Sludge Beds Nature Reserve, as far as the M5 motorway. This wildlife-rich wetland area is also managed by Devon Wildlife Trust.
Beyond the motorway, the disused Topsham Lock and house (no road access) is reached. From here a seasonal ferry operates to Topsham across the river.
Meanwhile, the low- lying RSPB Exminster and Powderham Marshes Nature Reserve is situated to the west of the canal. The marshes are an important breeding ground for lapwings, redshanks and dragonflies too.
At the end of the canal, the Turf Hotel (seasonal opening, closed in winter), offers food and liquid replenishment. There is no vehicle access to Turf Locks. Visitors must either walk, cycle or arrive by boat via another seasonal ferry from Topsham. How refreshing is this? If you’ve walked from Exeter, your endeavour is repaid many times over as the views across the muddy sandbanks are simply superb.
A very short distance beyond the hotel the canal finally meets the tidal estuary, with its distinctly rich, chocolate brown-coloured mudflats.
The Exeter Canal truly is a nature lover’s paradise. It is surrounded by some of the best birding spots in South Devon. It even has ruined lime kilns too, not to mention wonderful views of Exeter Cathedral. The distant, rolling gentle hills of South Devon also provide additional interest.
Why not visit the canal as part of a holiday in the South West? There are many combinations of travel available; however car access is very limited and often non-existent! However you choose to enjoy it, the canal has a unique atmosphere that will leave an irresistible and indelible mark for many years to come.