Creag Dhubh & The Black Carls
1 NH025611 Start at the vehicle track that runs past Cairn Sheil, a small holiday bungalow situated 800m south of Kinlochewe on the Glen Torridon road. There are parking places at a large lay-by next to the bridge over the Allt a’ Chuirn, 150m further south. Follow the track west for approximately 500m, until it takes a sharp turn to the north. A few metres after this turn, a stalker’s path (small cairn) leaves the main track and heads west, towards Beinn Eighe. Follow this well-made path, which stays close to the north bank of the Allt a’ Chuirn and passes through the remnants of an ancient Caledonian wood.
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After 2km of contemplative walking the path arrives at a tributary within a small picturesque ravine. This will be the last sheltered spot on a windy day. Skirt around to the right on a rough path, then scramble down into the ravine and ford the right-hand burn. A steep scramble out of the ravine leads onto the spur of land separating the streams. Follow the good path on the crest of the spur, which leads west onto open moorland. The path continues directly towards the prominent east ridge of Creag Dhubh, the most easterly point on Beinn Eighe’s main ridge. The triangular base of Creag Dhubh’s east ridge consists of a scattering of indistinct buttresses interspersed by snow slopes and hollows. Whatever route is chosen to gain the crest of the ridge, all – despite their easy appearance from a distance – will likely involve Grade I terrain. The most efficient route depends simply upon the snow conditions on the day. The summer path, if not under snow, takes
the right flank and weaves up a steep slope of fine quartzite scree. Once on the crest of the ridge, an easy stroll leads directly to Creag Dhubh’s tiny summit. It may only have a 10m prominence above its immediate surroundings but it feels like, and has the outlook of, a major Highland peak.
3 NG985607 From Creag Dhubh strike south-west along Beinn Eighe’s main ridge. As the orientation runs side on to the prevailing westerly winds, small cornices (overhanging snow ledges) are often present along this entire section of ridge. They are easily avoidable. Continue for about 600m along the undulating ridge to reach a significant rocky step, the beginning of the ‘Black Carls’. These shattered quartzite blocks and pinnacles provide wonderfully exposed (but never too difficult) winter scrambling. Even though they extend for a distance of less than 250m, a winter crossing feels like a proper mountaineering excursion. In lean or well-consolidated snow conditions the going is straightforward. In fresh, untracked snow or under deep powder the going can be a little more involved. In these latter conditions, a good nose for route-finding is a handy skill to have.
4 NG981600 The final pinnacle of the Black Carls abuts directly onto the shapely summit of Sgurr nan Fhir Duibhe. To descend, head due east down an easy, uniform slope. This will lead directly onto the east spur, which encloses the amphitheatre (likely snow-filled) of Coire Domhain. From the end of the spur, bail north-east down easy slopes. A deer fence can be crossed at its northern end, at a point just before it begins to dip into the Allt a’ Chuirn water course.
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At the first amenable opportunity, descend north into the water course through the remnants of the ancient pine forest. Ford the stream where possible then scamper up the north bank to reach the well-made path used on the approach… and so to Glen Torridon.