Pinnacle Ridge, Sgurr nan Gillean
NG486298 From the A863 at Sligachan, follow a path south-south-west to the Allt Dearg Mor. Cross a bridge over the burn and continue across moorland, making straight for the impressive Coire a’Bhasteir peaks. At about 2km, branch left to cross a second bridge, this time over the Allt Dearg Beag. Climb steadily to the broad shoulder of high ground above Coire Riabhach. Peel off right on an indistinct path that climbs the spur thrown down by Pinnacle Ridge. As you ascend, the ground becomes rockier, narrowing to give a view down into the menacing Bhasteir Gorge on the right. Continue up scree to reach the foot of the First Pinnacle.
NG472259 It is possible to make a rock-climbing ascent of the First Pinnacle’s north-west face directly, but easier to stay further left, taking a line of least resistance up grassy grooves and rock outcrops. Keep bearing diagonally left until directly over Coire Riabhach, then slant back right up a rubbly rake to the Coire a’Bhasteir side. Traverse right briefly, then back up left to climb a short, steep groove formed by an eroded basalt dyke. Head right to reach a narrow square-cut ledge on the left wall of a little gully; ascend this feature to reach easy ground and the top of the First Pinnacle. Pass the head of a gully on your right. From here it’s possible to circumvent any significant scrambling as far as the depression between the Second and Third Pinnacles, simply by keeping well to the left. Better, though, is to climb right up clean slabs before
heading left up a groove to the ill-defined summit of the Second Pinnacle. Scree now leads to the foot of the Third Pinnacle. Scramble right to reach a clean groove just to the right of the crest. Climb this, with a few stiff moves near the top. The summit of the Third Pinnacle is just beyond, an airy perch with space all around. The onward route into the deep gap
before Knight’s Peak looks daunting, to say the least. Now comes the abseil. Anchor slings will usually be found in-situ around some big blocks on the summit, and if there is any reason to doubt their integrity then replace them with cord of your own. NB: Always use a prusik to provide safety back-up when you abseil. Descend by abseil for roughly 20m to a narrow ledge below the peak. From the ledge go down an awkward little chimney to the neck between the Third Pinnacle and Knight’s Peak. Follow a clean-cut ledge leading diagonally right across the face of Knight’s Peak, crossing two thin sections above a scary drop. If you stick with the ledge until directly over Coire a’Bhasteir you’ve gone too far. Instead, soon after the second narrowing, turn diagonally left up a sloping gritty ledge, before climbing to a flat platform with a clear view west to Am Basteir. Climb a short groove formed by a dyke to reach the crenelated summit of Knight’s Peak.
NG471253 The descent involves intricate route finding. Return to the flat platform, then take a stony traverse path below and right of the peak. At a gap before the first of two minor towers downclimb a groove on the right, then zigzag down outcrops and scree to outflank the first tower. At the next opportunity go up and right below the right side of the second tower via some tricky moves, then up left to a ledge directly beneath the summit pyramid of Sgurr nan Gillean. The final slabby Moderate climb onto Sgurr nan Gillean can be bypassed via a long rightwards traverse from this point, leading eventually to the mountain’s West Ridge. Better, though, is to tackle the face head-on – and a rope and some climbing protection would not be excessive here. Make a hard step up left to get established on the face, and then follow your nose up a succession of ill-defined ribs and grooves. The rock is of reassuring quality, and the situations are tremendous – albeit serious. Eventually gain the West Ridge, not far short of the top; turn left and scramble up blocks to reach one of Scotland’s airiest Munro summits. NG471252 You are not out of the woods yet, since there is no walking-only descent from Sgurr nan Gillean. The misleadingly named Tourist Route down the south-east ridge is the only practical way, and in its upper reaches this is a hard and exposed Grade 3 scramble. Cross a thin neck to an awkward and very airy step down a steep slab; this looks improbable, but has to be tackled head-on. Thereafter, the blocky crest eases gradually into a broad shoulder, which marks the end of all technical ground.
NG473249 Drop north-east from the ridge into a grassy scree bowl to pick up a cairned northward path that traverses rough ground under Pinnacle Ridge, entering Coire Riabhach down scree to the left of an area of slabs. In poor visibility take great care here to locate the correct line among the steeper rocky ground. Once safely on the corrie floor, keep heading roughly north on the obvious, well-used path, which soon climbs to the broad shoulder on the north flank of the corrie. Now reverse Stage 1 back down to Sligachan.