CRINKLE CRAGS AND BOWFELL
The Lake District’s definitive fell walk, with all the key features that make for a great day’s adventure.
If there is one walk that best defines walking in the Lake District it has to be the high-level romp over Crinkle Crags and Bowfell. They are not the highest and they are certainly not the hardest summits, but between them they hold all the key features that make for a truly great day’s fell-walking adventure. Between these two peaks you’ll be tested with some navigational conundrums, get your boots, and occasionally your hands, on rough Lakeland rock and experience the roller coaster of hard work that proper mountain terrain provides.
For position, it’s hard to beat Bowfell. Situated at the very hub of the central fells, it gives an unrivalled perspective on all the Lake District’s main valleys, and dominates all its surroundings with its extensive ridges, towering cliffs and height advantage above its near neighbours.
As a perfect adjunct to Bowfell’s singular presence, Crinkle Crags is more complex, with intimate features. Its skyline crest consists of five main summits interspersed by deep cols and supported by towering buttresses. When viewed on a map, the main crest looks incredibly confusing – and on the ground, particularly before you embark along it, it does look like a bit of a puzzle. Once you commit to it, though, everything fits into place and the logic of its layout becomes clear.
Crinkle Crags has one scrambly section, which was christened by Wainwright as the ‘Bad Step’, which comprises a couple of marginally exposed moves that experienced walkers will barely think twice about. It is, however, best tackled in ascent so, for this reason, the walk should be done clockwise. Doing it clockwise also means you can add in the beautiful little summit of Pike of Blisco as a perfect warm-up peak.
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From the car park walk west up the valley road and follow it around the bend past the Old Dungeon Ghyll Hotel. Continue up it as it climbs steeply south up the side of the valley. A path breaks off right above the second set of hairpin bends; follow it as it makes a pleasant rising traverse south-west around the middle reaches of Redacre Gill. As the path reaches the head of Redacre Gill it gains the rocky eastern flanks of Pike of Blisco. The path swings west and picks its way through numerous rocky outcrops, climbing directly to the summit cairn. In clear weather it’s easy to vary the line of ascent, either to take in the odd craglet if you fancy a bit of a scramble or to gain a vantage point to peer back down the length of Langdale.
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There’s a fair loss of height with the descent down to Red Tarn and the first part of the path winds down through crags, so if it’s misty or you are not sure of the route take a bearing to get you started. The first bit is due south but the path soon swings round to the south-west after about 100m.
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The broad col that Red Tarn occupies is an important fell link between Great Langdale and the Coniston fells via the head of Wrynose Pass. The onward path towards Crinkle Crags crosses the Red Tarn path at a crossroads. Red Tarn lies a couple of hundred metres south-east of the crossroads and is worth taking a peek at if time allows. It lies in a valley that was carved out along the line of a fault that’s heavily mineralised, predominantly with haematite which gives the surrounding rocks and soils their reddish hue and is probably what led to Red Tarn’s name. For such a large surface area, Red Tarn is rather unusual in that it is only 3ft deep at most.
Beyond Red Tarn, the path to Crinkle Crags cuts a gentler course – again traversing the upper reaches of Browney Gill. It affords dramatic views down into the gill but then, strangely, cuts across the southern side of Great Knott. As the first Crinkle is approached, the ground starts to fall away on both sides and the pronounced nature of the main ridge becomes apparent. Great Cove on the eastern side is particularly wild and dramatic but, as the summit cairn is reached, vast views open out west across upper Eskdale towards the Scafell range.
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A short descent from the first Crinkle leads to an exposed col, across from which the ‘Bad Step’ lies on the side of the second Crinkle at the head of a narrowing ridge. Don’t be put off by its name, though, as it’s just a short sequence of straightforward moves up a stepped corner – it’s more problematic in descent.
From below the chockstone, move right into a shallow corner and then use the big holds to pull up on to a platform. From the platform scrabble left past the top of the chockstone and gain the continuation of the path. If you really don’t fancy the ‘Bad Step’, there is a lower-level path that skirts around the western side of the second Crinkle located on the right at the grassy depression on the col. This path traverses left (west) then turns north to follow a grassy rake to a cairn. The main summit can then be gained by a path that heads east from it directly to the top. The above picture shows this path in reverse.
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The rest of the traverse across the crest of Crinkle Crags is a bit of a roller coaster affair, but relatively straightforward. Numerous summits, sub-summits and cols are crossed by slightly varying paths. Generally, you should head north – sticking as close to the highest points as possible. A slabby crest of rocks marks the descent off Crinkle Crags and the path bypasses this slightly, heading down to the broad col below Bowfell; this is Three Tarns, although Three Puddles would be more apt! In clear, still conditions it’s a very dramatic place with the rocky crags of Bowfell Links rearing up in front of you and the spine of Crinkle Crags behind. When conditions are poor, however, it’s not a place to linger. It catches just about any wind going and is very dour when the mist is down.
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From Three Tarns dramatic views open up into the remote and lonely upper reaches of Eskdale. Across Lingcove Beck and the Great Moss, the distinct notched profile of Scafell and Scafell Pike fills the horizon. On the north side of the Three Tarns col the gully-cut crags of Bowfell Links provide an interesting distraction close at hand. Among these crags are a few challenging scrambles, and in winter the gullies and buttresses give good winter climbs. Three Tarns is where Bowfell first shows its real mountain teeth. In benign conditions the onward path climbs clearly to the north exploiting a weakness between crags, but in mist or snow you need to have your wits about you to find the right line. Climb the scree path and then the open ramp, which leads north-west on to the castellated summit rocks.
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It’s famine or feast with Bowfell’s summit: in summer sunshine its rocks are a glorious place to bask and take in the world, but in cold, damp weather it can be grim. If you are lucky enough to be there when it’s clear but cold, resist the temptation to scarper and, instead, throw on another layer to admire unsurpassed views of Langdale, Langstrath and Eskdale its lofty perch. To continue, head north from the summit and pick your way down the main ridge to reach the high col at Ore Gap.
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The distinct, red hue of the rocks at Ore Gap is derived from the deposits of the mineral hematite in a vein that crosses the col. The path down its north side heads down to Angle Tarn and joins the bridleway that heads back to Langdale. Turn right onto this bridleway and then follow it past the outlet stream from Angle Tarn, making the short climb south-east to the head of Rossett Gill.
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Don’t be tempted to descend the path directly into Rossett Gill as it’s steep and uncomfortable to negotiate, instead take the main bridleway that skirts south-south-east on a broad shelf. After 300m it twists into a series of hairpins and then runs out to the footbridge at the top of Mickleden.
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Cross the footbridge and then follow the good valley bottom track all the way along Mickleden and back to the Old Dungeon Ghyll Hotel, where you can enjoy well-earned sustenance the renowned Hiker’s Bar.