“In every respect Beinn Eighe pays huge dividends”
A full-blown Highland expedition with big characters... and even bigger rewards.
An Teallach, Liathach and Beinn Alligin are brazen with their posturing. In full view from the valleys beneath they are rightly admired for the way they look and revered by walkers for the adventure they offer. Amongst these giants of the north-west Highlands however, there is a mountain that in many respects outclasses them all, but as it keeps its face hidden, only those that seek it will unlock its spectacular profile. The mountain in question is Beinn Eighe. As with most mountains in this neck of the woods it’s not just one summit, instead it’s a long massif with a main ridge and subsidiary spurs intersected by deep, crag-ringed corries. The difference between Beinn Eighe and all its neighbours is its best features all face north onto a road-less and people-less wild expanse of lochs, bogs and fast-flowing burns. To get a proper glimpse of this amazing mountain you have to put in a real effort. If not you’re just left with the rather bland slopes on its road – accessed southern flanks! By taking advantage of high roadside access points and estate access tracks it is possible to short-cut many fine mountains in Scotland. However, Beinn Eighe is not one of them. From the minute you set foot on its untamed flanks you are stepping into the world of true Highland walking. Underfoot conditions can range from frustrating to impossible (particularly in snow or after heavy rain), distances and height gain are considerable, and navigation can be testing. However, the rewards are proportionate to the effort of your endeavour, and in every respect Beinn Eighe pays huge dividends. Not only do you get to summit two mightily impressive Munros, and scramble along intimate crests, you also get to visit Coire Mhic Fhearchair. Topped by the towering rocks of Triple Buttress, it is arguably the finest corrie in Britain.
At over 26km in length and with a total height gain exceeding 2000m this walk is a big undertaking. It can be done, with an early start, in a day but it also makes an excellent two-day backpacking trip. A prime place to overnight would be Coire Mhic Fhearchair, but there are other good options on the walk in.
1NH027619 From Kinlochewe, head a short distance north-west on the A832 until it is possible to pick up a waymarked footpath through the pine trees on the left of the road. This path eventually leads to a footbridge.
2NH020626 Cross the footbridge over the Allt Sguabaidh and join the stalkers’ path on the other side. This path is followed beside the burn as it climbs steadily south-west and then cuts north-west across the top of Doire Dharaich to eventually arrive at the moorland col of Drochaid Allt Toll a’ Ghiubhais.
3NG983624 Beyond Drochaid Allt Toll a’ Ghiubhais pass the deer fence and enter the upper reaches of Toll a’ Ghiubhais. At this point the path becomes vague and the terrain becomes very rough. You need to force a route west across this wild pathless area first with a slow descent west, then after carefully crossing the Allt Toll a’ Ghiubhais, with an undulating traverse (still west) around the lower flanks of Ruadh-stac Mor. Continue traversing at around the 370m contour and then make a steady climb south-west to gain the side of the burn issuing from Coire Mhic Fhearchair.
4NG936613 Cross the burn and join the footpath on the other side. The path climbs south-east into Coire Mhic Fhearchair. If you are overnighting in the corrie the best options for level pitches are at either end of the loch. There are paths around both side of the loch, but while the western shore gives you the closest views of Sail Mhor’s towering crags it’s rather rough and time-consuming. The eastern path saves time, and is best taken if you’re doing the route in just one day. Both paths get you close to the base of Triple Buttress. From the back of the corrie a
“At over 26km in length and with a total height gain of 2000m, this walk is a big undertaking”
steep path climbs the headwall (right of Triple Buttress) southwest then west to gain the col on the south side of Sail Mhor. A short sharp ridge leads north directly to the magnificent summit of Sail Mhor. If you hadn’t already taken in the magnitude of the surrounding wilderness around you so far on the walk, you will do as soon as you hit the summit. It’s inescapable and breathtaking. In every direction there are mountains and wild spaces of a quality that is hard to beat elsewhere in Britain.
NG937605 Backtrack to the col, then tackle the narrow crest that leads east onto Coinneach Mhor. There is a bit of easy scrambling involved over a series of rock steps – the easiest lines tend to be on the right-hand side. Coinneach Mhor’s summit is a relatively level affair. Head east along it for 550m to the top of a ridge (marked by a cairn).
NG950601 This ridge is taken as the out and back link to visit Ruadh-stac Mor (the highest summit of the Beinn Eighe massif and the first Munro on this route). A steep narrow crest leads down to a narrow col, then a gentler walk north-north-west leads to the domed summit.
NG951611 Re-trace your steps back to the marker cairn at the eastern end of Coinneach Mhor’s summit, then turn south-east and follow the narrowing crest which leads around the head of Coire Ruadastaca and then climbs east onto the twin-topped summit of Spidean Coire nan Clach. This involves a bit of easy scrambling, nothing too hard, just enough to add interest. A trig point marks the western top, while the higher eastern top just has a cairn. This is the second Munro of the route.
NG966597 From the summit, descend east onto the interconnecting ridge with Sgurr Ban. The ridge is narrow with drops on both sides, but the crest is sufficiently wide enough not to create any drama.
NG974600 Sgurr Ban holds a new set of perspectives, and although you’ve still got a fair bit of work to do it does feel like you’re on the home stretch, with familiar views back towards Loch Maree. Another descent and narrow crest leads on from Sgurr Ban to the final major summit of the day, Sgurr nan Fhir Duibhe. The last section is over steep scree and requires care. The dramatically perched summit is poised above tall broken crags.
NG981600 The descent from Sgurr nan Fhir Duibhe has a bit of a sting in the tail, in the form of a series of pinnacles known as Bodaich Dubh. The exposure is greatest if you tackle the descent direct, while a line on the eastern side is less daunting. Once committed to the descent, and so long as you take care over loose rock, the trickiness soon evaporates, and at no point should the scrambling prove harder than Grade 1. An easier crest-top path then leads north-north-east to the minor top, Creag Dubh.
NG985608 From Creag Dubh descend east down the ridge-top path until you reach a cairn at a tiny rise. Turn left off the ridge at the cairn and follow the loose path as it sidesteps the craggy shoulder that interrupts the ridge. Above the burn, turn east and regain the path to the base of the ridge. At the bottom cross the steep-side burn junction and pass through the deer fence. A path down beside a steeply wooded burn (Allt a’ Chuirn) leads east towards the A896. You can either continue all the way down to the road and follow it back to Kinlochewe, or take a shortcut path north-east through trees 250m before the road is reached.