Trail Masterclass:
Experience the beautiful Isle of Skye the traditional way, but be warned – you definitely will not want to go home!
Getting to grips with scrambling
QI’ve recently been introduced to scrambling by a friend and am now keen to do it a lot more often. Do you have any tips for scramblers?
Jeremy says Scrambling tackles the middle ground between walking and rock climbing and can be loosely defined, in its simplest form perhaps, as getting hands-on with rock. As an outdoor pursuit, scrambling is a fantastic way to test yourself on the hill, keep fit and unlock new parts of a mountainous landscape you might not otherwise get to explore. Whether you are a first-time scrambler or have years of experience, there are a number of things that are always important to remember in order to maximise your ability and enjoyment of scrambling and to also stay safe while doing it. Here are some of my top tips…
1 Climb to scramble
At the softer end of the scrambling grading range you will encounter the odd move that requires the use of hands to keep you balanced. At the top end of the grading range you’ll have to deal with long sequences of moves where your hands will be holding you to the rock. Humans are natural climbers and we will, without thinking, make use of our hands to help with balance. Most people can tackle Grade 1 scrambles without too much effort. However, harder scrambles of Grade 2 and 3 will involve holds that require slightly unnatural techniques and sections of steep rock that involve complex and convoluted movements. Having a good base level of skill and fitness whilst out in the hills will allow you to operate safely if things do go wrong.
If you plan to climb Grade 2 scrambles on the hill, the ability to do easy rock climbs will give you that confidence-boosting excess of skills. Signing up for an entry-level course at an indoor climbing wall, even if you never intend to rock climb outside, will increase your scrambling skills hugely.
Alternatively, during the colder season, you could attend an outside scrambling course – having expert tuition when conditions are less than ideal (wet and cold rock, for example) will massively expand your skill set.
2 Inwards and outwards
Fluent movement and good balance are the foundation of good scrambling skills, and you can practice them daily. Balancing along curbs, skipping between paving stones, bridging in door frames or doing pull-ups on door jambs (as long as they are strong enough to hold your weight!) will all help.
One thing that tends to get overlooked is practicing moves facing out. The natural climbing position is facing inwards to the wall or rock, but there will be occasions during downclimbs when you will need to face outwards – to spot holds and exploit balance moves. So, for this reason take time to practice downclimbing facing out. Pick a boulder or small crag with a safe, flat landing zone and practice climbing facing in then reversing the move facing out.
3 Learn to route-find
Success or failure on a scramble can often be determined by locating the correct hold at a key, or crux, section. Micro route-finding problems in these moments are too small to be resolved by a map, so instead you must use your own problemsolving skills. Making use of the knowledge provided by guidebooks and anecdotal insights from experienced scramblers and climbers helps.
Before you set off check your route, as well as possible escape options, in a guidebook. Also speak to scramblers and climbers with previous experience of the route. During your scramble, always be searching for indicators of how past traffic has affected the route; look at the rocks for signs of use such as polishing or crampon marks.
But also be aware some of these routes can be false paths that may lead towards a dead end – for this reason you should never commit to a sequence of moves you can’t easily reverse. If confronted by a problem, always cast about for alternate lines or bypass routes. Often you can be blinded by what is in front of you and miss less obvious but correct routes to one side.
4 Identify dodgy terrain
Although scrambling routes are less steep and technical than rock climbs, it doesn’t make them any safer. In fact, it could be argued rock climbing on steep, clean rock with the protection of ropes is safer than
scrambling over less vertical but broken terrain. If a loose hold breaks on you whilst climbing you should end up dangling safely at the end of a rope, however, do the same whilst scrambling and you could end up bouncing hundreds of feet to the bottom of a cliff. For this reason, it is important to understand the reliability and stability of the terrain you are proposing to scramble over.
Testing holds before you load weight onto them should be instinctive. Also, it’s vital to understand how the elements can affect scrambling. For example, after a hard winter of freeze-thaw weather patterns, stone fall can be considerable even on well-trafficked routes. In humid conditions meanwhile, holds that would otherwise be grippy can become slick and unreliable. And after heavy rain, saturated rock and earth ledges can collapse when loaded with bodyweight.
5 Know your grades
Scrambling grades can be slightly subjective but the golden rule is simple – make sure you’re well experienced with one before moving on to the next.
Grade 1: Generally straightforward with no route-finding problems. Some exposure and simple moves that experienced hillwalkers should have no problems dealing with.
Grade 2: More difficult route finding and holds that are less obvious or frequent. Some difficult moves and exposure.
Grade 3: Route-finding, exposure and technical difficulty become serious. A rope and suitable skills should be considered for some pitches.
Grade 3S/4: Crossover with entry-level rock climbing, and requires considerable experience both with climbing and rope skills.
While you might go to Skye for some of the best mountain terrain in the UK, a visit to this Scottish isle isn’t complete without some quintessential Scottish experiences… a loch, otters, seals, golden eagles, whisky and a traditional cottage. Katie-Ann’s pictureperfect white thatch in Luib is a wonderful base for all these things, and more!
With your own piece of stunning shoreline as your garden, your spare time can be spent otter and eagle watching. The Red Cuillin rears up behind, while the formidable walks, scrambles and climbs of the Black Cuillin beckon beyond. Situated just off the main road through Skye, the property is perfectly located for exploring the whole of the island, and with plenty of walks from the door.
You can’t fail to be charmed by the cottage’s metre-thick walls, four-poster bed and the cosiness provided by a multi-fuel stove. The living, kitchen and dining room are open plan, and the dining table seats four.
You might struggle to find a better self-catering base for two. And if Skye’s magic rubs off on you, you may not want to leave!