Pennine Way Routes 9-11
Wainwright’s Pennine journey got this bit wrong! Chiz Dakin finds it’s a high-level leisurely pub-to-pub walk with a proper excuse to stop at the famous Tan Hill Inn!
A high-level pub-to-pub route with some special walking in between
Forget the long-distance route march in rain and clag. This is a route for a hot, dry and settled spell, not one of low visibility clag and high-water tables. Rather than flogging yourself to cover substantial mileage each day (as both its creator Tom Stephenson and Wainwright intended) it’s a route to be done at a gentle pace. Indeed, it’s far better to view this section of the Pennine Way as an extended high-level pubto-pub walk with just a few inns but some wild walking between them. Enjoy a lazy evening at the highest pub in England as the highlight, and beautiful limestone vales, traditional cow’usses* and perhaps a sighting of a black grouse or lapwing on the way. *For definition of cow’us – see Route 10, point 5.
TRANSPORT
Buses from train station at Garsdale to the start at Hawes: Mon-Sat 113 (4x/day) and from Northallerton to Hawes on Sun (856). From the finish at Bowes requires more planning: 0871 200 22 33, www.traveline.info
ACCOMMODATION & PUBS Day 1: Hawes has a reasonable choice, Green Dragon Inn, Hardraw, 01969 667392, www.thegreendragoninnhardraw.com Kearton Country Hotel, Thwaite, 01748 886277, www. keartoncountryhotel.co.uk Usha Gap campsite, Long Close House, Muker, 01748 886110, www.ushagap.co.uk
Day 2: Tan Hill Inn (rooms/ informal camping), Long Causeway, 01833 628246, www.tanhillinn.com
Also try Rukins-Park Lodge campsite, Keld, Keld Lodge Hotel, Keld. Day 3: The Ancient Unicorn, Bowes.
PRACTICALITIES
Hawes has a bank, two small grocers, traditional sweet shop, pharmacy, petrol station, cafés, pubs and accommodation. After that, self-sufficiency is the key, although refreshments can be gained at all the pubs already mentioned and at two cafés in Hardraw. Bowes has very limited facilities other than the pub. Watch out for the grouse shooting area. As the Pennine Way is a right of way it shouldn’t be affected but open access land around it may be – see www.openaccess. naturalengland.org.uk.
TOURIST INFO
Hawes TIC, Yorkshire Dales National Park Centre, Station Road, Hawes, 01969 666210, www.yorkshire.com