Striding Edge in winter
It is the Lakes’ most famous ridge, and at its most stunning when white. But under snow, is Helvellyn’s finest as hard as it looks?
Just how hard can it be?
Wainwright described Helvellyn as a Jekyll and Hyde mountain, and you only need to set foot on this Lakeland giant to realise why. On one side its western flanks are benign slopes that run down in unbroken and undramatic lines direct to the shores of Thirlmere. On the other side it’s a totally different ball game, with the whole eastern face a four-mile barrier of monstrous crags and ridges. Along this eastern escarpment are six distinct corries, all of which have their enclosing arêtes.
The grandest of all is the one directly below Helvellyn’s summit, containing Red Tarn, and the most impressive ridges in the range enclose this huge, scooped-out bowl. These ridges are Striding Edge and Swirral Edge, and from the very earliest days of mountain adventure they have both generated a mixture of intrigue and fear. In particular Striding Edge, with its extended crest and lofty pinnacles, has become something of an icon – so much so that it graces the majority of Lake District-related visual references! It has also become something of a rite of passage for just about everybody who walks or climbs.
What’s it like?
This ridge was born against ice, because of ice. And it’s for this reason that, for many, the natural state in which to imagine Striding Edge is coloured sharp white. It is an understandable dream to traverse it in these conditions – but the reality can be intimidating. So how hard is it? And more to the point, how likely?
Helvellyn’s altitude, eastern aspect and distance from the sea means it holds snow longer than any other mountain south of the Scottish border. From the start of the winter season through to spring there is a very good chance snow and ice will be present on the ridge and on the adjacent head walls. Under snow and ice Striding Edge is classed as a Grade 1 winter climb: defined as either straightforward snow gullies and slopes of around 45˚, or easy ridges where cornices may be encountered.
Striding Edge is perhaps the definitive Grade
1 winter ridge. Overall the technical moves are straightforward, and route-finding is not an issue. There is some exposure, but it’s not overwhelming – and there are bypass paths if you want to avoid the proximity of the biggest drops.
The route in winter
The conventional way to tackle Striding Edge is to do so east to west. It consists of four sections. The first is a broad, rocky crest that crosses Bleaberry Crag and Low Spying How. Along this bit you can just wander over or around obstacles pretty much at will. However ice and snow will make the rocks slippery, so unless you already have them out you’ll need to put crampons on and start using your ice axe. Walking over iced rocks in crampons takes practice, so ensure you’re already accustomed to it.
As the next stage over High Spying How is approached, the crest narrows considerably. Here you have two choices: either follow the crest or take one of the bypass paths. Many people opt for the reduced exposure of the bypasses, which are fine in summer but in winter can be banked out and far more precarious. The crest is only marginally more exposed and offers secure holds and footings on good solid rock.
“STRIDING EDGE HAS BECOME A RITE OF PASSAGE FOR JUST ABOUT EVERYBODY WHO WALKS OR CLIMBS”
“descent from this tower is generally the spot that perplexes most people”